Exploring lesser-visited parts of Europe was something I had wanted to do for a long time. When the opportunity came up, we set off, in the middle of winter, on a road trip through the Balkans, the European region which includes countries that were once part of Yugoslavia.
Finding information about these destinations online wasn’t easy, so I’ve put together a series of posts with everything you need to know to plan your Balkans itinerary in Eastern Europe and explore this culturally rich and diverse region.
The former Yugoslavia dissolved in 1991–1992, resulting in six countries today: Serbia, Croatia, Slovenia, Montenegro, Bosnia and Herzegovina, and North Macedonia. In addition to these, Kosovo still seeks independence from Serbia; many countries recognize it as an independent state, though not all do (especially Serbia).
In this post, you’ll find our Balkans itinerary, with tips on where to stay, routes, and must-see attractions.
First of all, follow me on Instagram @danae_explore – that’s where you can keep up with my trips, find lots of travel tips, and send me a DM anytime. I love chatting about travel!
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Balkans in 3 weeks – itinerary overview
We made this trip in winter, but it can be done year-round.
All the destinations we visited have something to offer in every season. In fact, around Kotor, there are great beaches if you visit in the warmer months
- Day 1️⃣ – Arrival in Belgrade (Serbia), pick up the rental car and check in at the hotel
- Day 2️⃣ – Belgrade
- Day 3️⃣ – Drive to Zlatibor and Tara National Park
- Day 4️⃣ – Tara National Park
- Day 5️⃣ – Drive to Zabljak (Montenegro) – Durmitor National Park
- Day 6️⃣ – Durmitor National Park
- Day 7️⃣ – Durmitor National Park
- Day 8️⃣- Drive to Kotor
- Day 9️⃣ – Kotor
- Day 1️⃣0️⃣ – Kotor
- Day 1️⃣1️⃣ – Budva in the morning, then drive to Dubrovnik (Croatia) in the afternoon
- Day 1️⃣2️⃣ – Dubrovnik
- Day 1️⃣3️⃣ – Dubrovnik
- Day 1️⃣4️⃣ – Drive to Mostar (Bosnia-Herzegovina)
- Day 1️⃣5️⃣ – Mostar
- Day 1️⃣6️⃣ – Mostar in the morning, drive to Sarajevo, with a stop at Jahorina
- Day 1️⃣7️⃣ – Sarajevo
- Day 1️⃣8️⃣ – Sarajevo in the morning, then drive to Belgrade (Serbia) in the afternoon
- Day 1️⃣ 9️⃣ – Belgrade
- Day 2️⃣0️⃣ – flight back home
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Driving in the Balkans: what to expect
Driving is a big part of a road trip, right?
During these 3 weeks in the Balkans, we drove almost 2,000 km (precisely 1,960 km) through four countries: we rented the car in Serbia, drove through Montenegro, then Croatia, continued into Bosnia, and finally returned to Serbia.
We didn’t encounter any issues along the way.
Except for a short stretch near Belgrade, where we drove on a dual carriageway, the entire journey was on single-lane roads. The region is quite mountainous, so the roads are very winding. It’s important to stay alert, stick to the speed limits, and take in the scenery (the views are beautiful!).
Driving is on the right-hand side (as in the rest of continental Europe), with the steering wheel on the left and traffic flowing on the right.
We didn’t encounter any tolls, police checkpoints, or inspections along the route.
In Serbia and Bosnia, road signs are in both Latin and Cyrillic alphabets; in the other countries, only in the Latin alphabet.
To rent a car, I always use RentCars, where I usually find the best options, and with the DANAE promo code you still get an additional 5% off. Shall we go?
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About border controls:
We had no problems at any of the borders.
We rented a van, and there were seven of us (four adults and three children) traveling on Brazilian, Italian, and Hungarian passports. We weren’t asked for any additional information or documents beyond where we were coming from and where we were going to. There were no vehicle inspections at any point.
Exit from Serbia, entry into Montenegro:
We entered Montenegro via Jabuka (Serbian side) and Ranče (Montenegrin side). The wait on both sides was short, with about two to three cars ahead of us.
Exit from Montenegro, entry into Croatia:
From Montenegro to Croatia, we crossed at Debeli Brijeg (Montenegrin side) and Karasovići (Croatian side). The line to enter Croatia was long, with a wait of about one hour.
Exit from Croatia, entry into Bosnia and Herzegovina:
There was no border control when entering Bosnia and Herzegovina. Our documents were only checked when leaving Croatia (at Zaton Doli), and we didn’t pass through any border posts when entering Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Exit from Bosnia and Herzegovina, entry into Serbia:
We left Bosnia and Herzegovina through the eastern border with Serbia (at Šepak), where there were passport controls both when leaving Bosnia and entering Serbia, but in both cases without long lines or detailed questioning.
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Where to stay in Serbia, Montenegro, Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina
Over the course of these nearly three weeks, we stayed in seven different accommodations. We stayed in everything from traditional hotels and family-run guesthouses to mountain chalets and rustic Airbnbs.
In two apartments, one booked through Airbnb and the other through Booking, our reservation was canceled at the last minute by the respective hosts, and we had to scramble to find another place to stay. This had never happened to us before; it might have been just bad luck and coincidence, but in any case, it’s a good reminder to be extra cautious with cancellations and always have a backup plan.
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Where to stay in Belgrade, Serbia
We arrived in Belgrade, the capital of Serbia, on a low-cost flight at 3 am, so when booking, I looked for a traditional hotel with a 24-hour reception to avoid any hassle in the wee hours on our first night in Eastern Europe.
It was the right strategy: we stayed at Belgrade Inn Garni Hotel, in a central area of the city, very close to Republic Square and Knez Mihailova, the pedestrian street full of small shops, bars and restaurants. The hotel was decent in terms of comfort; the beds were a good size (although the sheets were small), breakfast was okay (although it fell short compared to the photos on Booking), and the staff was great. They even kept the boots I left behind on the first day, and I went back to pick them up on the last day of the trip when we returned to Belgrade (yes, I did that, I forgot my winter boots in the first accommodation and went through the entire trip wearing regular sneakers).
We returned to Belgrade on the last day of the trip and stayed at Public House Hotel. For our dates, it had a better rate than Belgrade Inn Garni Hotel, and we thought it would be a good idea to stay in another part of the city to explore it further.
It was an excellent choice! Public House Hotel was much more comfortable and newer than Belgrade Inn Garni Hotel. We stayed in a family apartment with two bedrooms, a living room, and a bathroom, perfect for us! The location is great, with several shops and restaurants nearby. We went to Njegoševa Street for dinner and breakfast. From the hotel, we walked to the waterfront, a pleasant walk.
You can check availability and prices here:
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Where to stay in Zlatibor, Serbia
Zlatibor is a small mountain town in Serbia that we used as a base to explore Tara National Park. It has a ski resort and is one of the best spots in Serbia for winter sports.
We stayed in a charming chalet, The Crown Lodge, which was new and clean.
However, we had a major issue with the host, as the listing stated that there was a sofa bed in the living room, which didn’t actually exist, as well as a hot tub, which the host informed us two weeks before our trip only worked in the summer. With no other option available, we had to squeeze in, with one adult and two children sleeping in a double bed, and the youngest child (ten years old at the time) in a crib.
The place would be excellent for up to five people, but be aware that there is only one bathroom.
In the Zlatibor area, I had shortlisted Hotel Tara and Apartments Milic, which were closer to Tara National Park – who knows, maybe we would have had better luck there? Another option that caught my attention was the Lake House Perucac: a floating house on the banks of the Drina River, which would have been amazing for a summer trip. Since it was winter, I didn’t think we would enjoy it as much.
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Where to stay in Žabljac, Montenegro
After arriving in Montenegro, our first stop was in Žabljak, near Durmitor National Park, the main winter sports area in Montenegro.
We had booked Villa Ama (via Airbnb), but the host informed us a few days before the trip that the heating system had broken down.
We then booked two chalets at Maple Village, each suitable for up to four people. The chalets were entirely wooden, with a small kitchen and bathroom. Although they can accommodate four people, we found them a bit cramped, especially the living room and kitchen area. The bathroom was quite basic.
Other options I had researched, but that were already booked by the time we had to switch to plan B, were Holiday Home Vile Calimero and Guest House Sky Blue.
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Where to stay in Kotor, Montenegro
One of the most beautiful towns on the Adriatic, Kotor is well worth spending a few days in.
But here we had another accommodation mishap. We had booked Guest House Rose; however, the host informed us the day before that she had health issues and couldn’t host us.
Fortunately, one of the options I had shortlisted on Booking was still available (I always save all the accommodations that seem interesting in a list, either for situations like this or to include them in detailed blog posts later).
So we ended up staying at Stone House Kotor, where our host Darko was very attentive and helpful. The house faces the Bay of Kotor, a short walk from the Old Town, and works well for a large group like ours (there were seven of us).
For other accommodation options in Kotor, check out our post on what to do in Kotor.
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Where to stay in Dubrovnik, Croatia
n Dubrovnik, we stayed in an excellent house, Emma’s Cottage, just a few meters from the Old Town walls, one of the best places we stayed on the trip. The host, also named Darko, gave us several tips, including restaurant recommendations (unfortunately closed due to the low season), and recommended a parking lot at a very reasonable price.
By the way, if you are traveling by car, when booking accommodation in Dubrovnik, pay close attention to parking: it is VERY expensive to park in the city, especially close to the Old Town. If you are staying at Emma’s Cottage, as soon as you confirm your reservation, ask Darko for the parking details and reserve your spot.
Other accommodation options in Dubrovnik that I had shortlisted were Villa Ragusa Vecchia and, within the Old Town, Apartment Maru Prestige and Dubrovnik Old Town Apartments.
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Where to stay in Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina
As I mentioned in my dedicated post about Mostar, we chose to stay in a hotel on our first stop in Bosnia.
We chose Hotel Sinan Han, and I highly recommend it. It is just two blocks from Stari Most, the town’s postcard-perfect bridge, and countless restaurants, shops, and markets; the room was comfortable and clean, and the hotel staff was simply amazing.
We had booked a family room (deluxe suite) that was supposed to accommodate four people, but the sofa bed was quite small and wouldn’t be comfortable for our two preteens. I asked at reception if it would be possible to add an extra bed, but they offered us a complimentary double room instead! It was perfect. So, if you’re traveling as a group of four, I recommend booking two double rooms.
In my post about Mostar, I also suggest other accommodation options in the town.
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Where to stay in Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina
In Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina, we chose a house, the Villa Kuna. It’s within walking distance of Baščaršija, the main historic area, where you’ll find the market, the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque, the Catholic Cathedral, the Orthodox Cathedral, and the synagogue, as well as several great museums and historic sites.
The host was very attentive and arranged for us to use the neighbor’s garage, since our car was quite large and it would have been difficult to park it in the house’s garage. The house was comfortable and accommodated our group of seven very well.
Other options I had shortlisted for Sarajevo were Hotel Aziza, Miaap Apartments and Hotel Sana, all in great locations.
Check out our post on what to do in 1 or 2 days in Sarajevo, there are other great accommodation options in the city.
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What to know before visiting the Balkans
Here are some practical tips that might help you when traveling through the former Yugoslavia:
- In Serbia, the Cyrillic alphabet is widely used, similar to the one used in Russia. In many places, you’ll also see the Latin alphabet, but not everywhere. So it’s a good idea to have an e-SIM card, as Google Translate will be one of your best allies.
. - In Serbia, smoking is allowed inside restaurants. In Montenegro, smoking is allowed inside bars and cafés, but in restaurants only outdoors. In Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, smoking is permitted in outdoor areas. So if you’re a non-smoker (like us) and are sensitive to cigarette smoke, be prepared, as it can be quite unpleasant.
. - Food wasn’t a highlight of the trip for us. Our best food experiences were in Bosnia and Herzegovina, with a cuisine that blends Eastern European and Middle Eastern influences.
. - Dubrovnik is VERY expensive (compared to the other destinations on this itinerary), especially when it comes to food and tours. Pay close attention to restaurant and café menus: check all prices before ordering. Even with plenty of travel experience, we fell for a restaurant scam: there were no prices listed for drinks or bread on the menu, and when we paid the bill, we found out that the water was €10 and the bread was €3 per person — a rip-off! On Stradun (the main street in the Old Town), it was common to pay €5.00 for an espresso.
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- Bosnia and Herzegovina was the most surprising highlight of our trip: a country full of unique charm and character, often making us feel like we were far from the rest of Europe. However, it’s also a land deeply scarred by one of the most brutal wars in European history, with the scars of that conflict still visible everywhere.
. - Communicating in English was easy throughout the trip: we didn’t have any communication difficulties at any point.
. - In Croatia and Montenegro, the currency is the euro, which makes things much easier for travelers. In Serbia, it’s the Serbian dinar, and in Bosnia, it’s the convertible mark.
. - All the countries are in the same time zone, GMT+1 (the same as Central Europe), but be aware of daylight saving time dates.
. - LGBTQIA+: Serbia and Montenegro are countries that are not very open to public displays of affection outside traditional heteronormative relationships. If you identify as part of the LGBTQIA+ community, research specific, up-to-date sources to avoid discomfort while traveling in the region.
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Balkans in winter: what to expect
We did this trip during the last week of December and the first two weeks of January, right at the beginning of winter.
The temperatures we encountered ranged from 14°C in Dubrovnik one afternoon to -5°C in Žabljak, in Durmitor National Park, Montenegro. However, these were the extremes.
For most of the trip, temperatures hovered between +2°C and +8°C — cold, but manageable (especially considering we live in the tropics, where temperatures never drop below 7°C). That said, appropriate clothing was essential: waterproof and windproof jackets, thermal pants, scarves, hats, and gloves were part of our daily attire.
It snowed one day in Žabljak and lightly one day in Sarajevo, at the end of the trip — to the kids’ disappointment, as they were expecting heavy snowfall throughout the road trip 🙂
We planned to ski in Montenegro at the Savin Kuk ski resort near Žabljak, in Durmitor National Park. Unfortunately, we visited in the last days of December, and there wasn’t enough snow — the season hadn’t started yet. The previous year, the resort had opened just after Christmas, but when we were there, it only opened in the second week of January.
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I hope this Balkans itinerary helped you plan your trip and explore this fascinating region of Europe.
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Our Eastern Europe road trip map
Our nearly 3-week itinerary through Eastern Europe took us through four countries: Serbia, Croatia, Montenegro, and Bosnia and Herzegovina. We covered 1,960 km in 18 days, with the first and last days set aside for airport transfers.
The map below shows our itinerary through the Balkans (Serbia, Montenegro, Croatia, and Bosnia and Herzegovina). Feel free to click and save it to your Google account for easy access when planning your own Eastern European adventure. When you start planning your next trip to Eastern Europe, you’ll already have a great starting point 😉
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How to use this map: Click the menu tab in the upper left corner of the map to access different layers, including points of interest and routes. You can toggle layers on and off by checking the corresponding boxes. To see details about specific locations, click on the icons on the map.
To save this map to your Google Maps account, just click the star icon next to the map title. To access it later on your phone or computer, open Google Maps, tap the menu button, go to “Your Places”, select “Maps”, and you’ll find this map saved there.
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All our posts about travel to the Balkans, to help you plan your trip:
- A 20-day Balkans itinerary: Serbia, Montenegro, Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina
- The complete guide to Kotor, Montenegro: what to do, where to stay, and when to go
- Mostar – what to do in the most charming town in Bosnia and Herzegovina
- What to do in Sarajevo: a 1 or 2-day itinerary in the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina
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Explore more of Europe with us:
Scandinavia
- Is it expensive to travel in Norway? Practical tips for visiting without breaking the bank
- Preikestolen: a hiker’s guide to Norway’s most spectacular viewpoint
- What to do in Norway in 12 days – and itinerary suggestions for 7, 10, 15 or 20 days
- Iceland itinerary: complete 5 to 9 day road trip guide
- What to do in Iceland – the best of the south and east of the island
- 5 unmissable small towns in Europe
Greece
- What to do in 2 or 3 days in Athens
- The best itinerary for a 15-day road trip around mainland Greece
Spain
- 10 days in Andalucia – Our itinerary through Southern Spain
- What to do in 2 days in Granada, Spain
- Ronda, the most charming town in Southern Spain
Portugal
- Portugal in two weeks: our complete itinerary and tips
- One week in the Azores – complete itinerary with Sao Miguel, Pico and Terceira Islands
- São Miguel, Azores: your complete guide to the largest island in the Azores
- Pico Island – complete guide to visiting the most picturesque island in the Azores
- Terceira Island itinerary for first-timers: a perfect Azores adventure
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