15-day Peloponnese itinerary - The best of mainland Greece

How about exploring mainland Greece? That's what we set out to do when we decided to make the most of our 15 days of vacation by visiting Greece for the first time.

Until then, Greece for me was synonymous with islands. One island, in particular, that probably existed only in my imagination (and maybe it's similar to yours): white houses along a cobblestone street on a gentle incline, small restaurants with tables outside, adorned with bougainvillea entwined in the railings. All of this with the backdrop of an amazing turquoise blue sea. Yes, a Mediterranean paradise.

But Greece is much more than the idyllic vision of its islands.

Greece is history, culture, a friendly people proud of their origins. It's delicious flavors and surprising wines. It's paradise beaches, charming villages, and a lot of fun.

This trip was done as a group with two families - 15 adults and 2 children, ranging in age from 4 to 4 at the time. We included activities to satisfy everyone, aiming for that essential blend of culture, fun, and relaxation that is important in any trip..


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15-day itinerary through the Peloponnese, Greece

This itinerary was planned to be done by car. While it's possible to do most of it with public transportation and tours, to truly enjoy what the contryside of Greece has to offer, savoring the trip at your own pace and with flexibility, I strongly recommend renting a car.

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What's it like to drive a rental car in Greece?

Driving in Greece was extremely smooth - so much so that I recommend it! - but some precautions are necessary.

Driving side is on the left, but the challenge lies in the narrow streets everywhere, many of them on steep inclines or declines. If you already have experience in Southern Europe, you won't be too surprised, but you need to be very alert. With such charming little towns, a split-second distraction while admiring the scenery can result in a fender-bender.

In Nafplio, one of those lovely and challenging narrow streets, we did indeed scratch the car's fender, which caused us some headache when returning it. However, everything was eventually resolved.

If you tend to feel insecure when driving through these narrow streets of ancient cities that seem too tight even for toy cars, seriously consider renting the car with full insurance coverage.

Apart from this minor incident (completely our responsibility), we had no problems during the 12 days we had the rented car.

Oh, and remember to bring your International Driving Permit (IDP). Greece was (so far) the only country where we were specifically asked to present it for vehicle rental.

We picked up the rental car on our the last day in Athens because a car isn't necessary in the city - you can do everything on foot, by metro, bus, or Uber/taxi.

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Days 1 to 3 – Athens

This 15-day itinerary through mainland Greece and the Peloponnese begins in Athens which will probably also be your starting point, since it is where the main airport is located.

Oh, and before you correct me, Athens is not in the Peloponnese region, but there is no way to leave this Greek treasure out of a roadtrip to the country, right?

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Where to stay in Athens

Athens offers a wide range of accommodation options to suit all styles and budgets. We stayed in Plaka, a central neighborhood close to the Acropolis.

With its narrow, stone-paved streets lined with charming shops, cafes, and restaurants, Plaka is an excellent choice, especially if you're only in the city for a short visit.

After extensive research, we had initially chosen the Plaka Hotel, which offered great prices, stunning views from the rooftop bar, and family rooms (two connected rooms—ideal for those traveling with children!). However, on the recommendation of a friend of a friend, we ended up staying in a house rented through Airbnb, which, unfortunately, is no longer listed on the platform.

Another fantastic option in Athens is The Pinnacle Athens, which also provides family rooms.

Check availability and rates here:

 

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What to do in Athens

I strongly recommend staying at least 2 full days in Athens . If you have time, 3 days (or more!) would be ideal to enjoy the city at the pace it deserves.

In this 15-day itinerary through Greece, we spent 2 and a half days in Athens.

In this post, I share everything we did in Athens, but to summarize, the highlights are:

  • Acropolis & Parthenon
  • Acropolis Museum
  • Temple of Olympian Zeus and Hadrian's Gate
  • Ancient Agora
  • Panathenaic Stadium
  • Plaka and surroundings (including Anafiotika and Monastiraki)
  • Archaeological Museum (and Campo de Marte park)
  • Syntagma Square (where the changing of the guard in parliament takes place)
  • National Gardens Park
  • If you have more time, it's worth exploring the region called the "Athens Riviera" along the coastline, in the neighborhoods of Glyfada and Vouliagmeni (we didn't go).

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Days 4 and 5 – Delphi

On the 4th day of our trip, our Greek roadtrip began! We picked up the rental car early and headed towards Delphi. It's about 180km away.

We stopped for lunch at Springs of Krya, in Levadia, at a restaurant called Watermill Tavern (ΤΑΒΕΡΝΑ ΝΕΡΟΜΥΛΟΣ). In this village, there are several restaurants by a small stream, and the food was delicious. The children played and cooled off in the water – we couldn't have chosen a better place for lunch.

With that, we arrived in Delphi by mid-afternoon and spent the rest of the day there, having ice cream, exploring the shops, and enjoying a good dinner.

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Where to stay in Delphi

The town of Delphi is very small and primarily thrives on tourism. There are several accommodation options, and if you stay anywhere central, you'll find restaurants, cafes, and shops within a short walking distance.

We stayed at Artemis Hotel, a charming hotel with a great location, quadruple rooms (in addition to traditional doubles and triples), and a very attentive staff. Another cost-effective option with breathtaking views is the Fedriades Delphi Hotel (which also offers quadruple rooms).

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What to do in Delphi

I recommend allocating at least a full day in Delphi, , allowing you time and tranquility to explore one of the 15 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Greece.

While it's possible to visit Delphi on a day trip from Athens with a rented car or on tours like this, in my opinion, it's well worth adopting a more relaxed pace to truly savor the place.

Legend has it – or rather, Greek mythology – Zeus, the all-powerful god of that time, was determined to find the center of the world. To do so, he released two eagles, one heading east and the other west, instructing them to always fly straight ahead. The birds met in Delphi, which was then deemed the center of the world and earned the title navel of the world (apparently, the Greeks have known for a long time that the Earth is round).

The must-see attractions in Delphi are the Archaeological Site and the Delphi Museum.

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Temple of Apollo

One of the most significant areas of the Delphi Archaeological Site is the Temple of Apollo, famous for its oracle. Between the 8th century BC and 2nd century BC this was a pilgrimage center where people from all walks of life sought divine insights into their destinies. The oracle’s prophecies were delivered by a Pythia, a specially trained woman who conveyed the messages of the god Apollo.

It was there that Acrisius, the father of young Danae (yes, I have a mythological Greek namesake), received the prophecy that his grandson would one day kill himThis prophecy set off a chain of events leading to the demise of the dreaded Medusa. If you’re not already familiar with the tales of Danae and Perseus in Greek mythology, I recommend delving into these stories. They are filled with dramatic love affairs, betrayal, violence, and heroic battles—classic elements of Greek tragedies. For an engaging exploration of these myths, consider reading "Bulfinch's Mythology" by Thomas Bulfinch, which covers these and other fascinating stories from various mythologies.

The Delphi Archaeological Site is extensive, so be prepared for a thorough exploration. Make sure to climb to the top, where you’ll find the ancient stadium and enjoy stunning views of the valley.

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Delphi Archaeological Museum

While you’re there, don’t miss the Delphi Archaeological Museum even if you’ve already visited its counterpart in Athens. Be sure to see the Delphi Charioteer, a rare and impressive bronze sculpture of a charioteer, believed to have been created as a thank-you gift for a victory in the Pythian Games.

So, please, don't miss Delphi on your trip to Greece!

After enjoying our time in Delphi, we spent another night in town before heading out early the next day towards Epidaurus.

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Day 5 – Corinth and Epidaurus

From Delphi to Epidaurus it is about 255km.

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Temple of Apollo and Sanctuary of Dionysus

On the way, we stopped in Corinth, but we didn't get to visit the ruins of the Temple of Apollo and Sanctuary of Dionysus. We simply admired them from a distance, had coffee and ice cream (Cafe Mousio and The Art of Gelato, just a few meters from the entrance to the archaeological site), let the children run around to burn off some energy, and then continued our journey towards Epidaurus, another UNESCO World Heritage Site in Greek territory.

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Theater of Epidaurus

Epidaurus is renowned for its Theater, built in the fourth century BC. It was one of the largest of its time and is famous for its exceptional acoustics — something we experienced firsthand!

During our visit, a group was gathered in the center of the theater, and a girl began singing. We climbed to almost the last row, and we could hear her clearly and distinctly from there!

We then decided to join in the fun: while one of the adults stood downstairs making noise, the children ran around the seating area, laughing at the sounds they heard! There is a marked spot in the center of the stage that indicates the best position for optimal acoustics.

The theater impresses not only with its acoustics but also with its grandeur.It measures 20 meters in diameter, has 55 rows of seats, and can accommodate over 13,000 people. Its semicircular design, the close proximity of the stage to the seats, the materials used, and its location away from urban noise all contribute to its remarkable acoustic performance.

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In addition to the theater, the archaeological site includes other ruins, such as the Temple of Asklepios and other remnants of what was once one of the major sanctuaries of classical Greece. Unfortunately, only a few fragments of these structures remain.

You can visit the Theater of Epidaurus with a round trip from Athens, either by rental car (about 140 km away) or through organized tours.

We arrived late in the afternoon in Nafplio, which is about 30 km further.

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Day 6 and 7- Nauplia and Mycenae

We spent two days in Nauplia, a pleasant medium-sized town on the coast of the Gulf of Argos, in the Mediterranean.

One day we took a day trip to Mycenae. The other day we took the opportunity to enjoy the town, climbed to the fortress (Palamidi Fortress), and visited the local beach , called Paralia Arvanitias.

In Nauplia, we stayed at Pension Dafni, an extremely well-located and charming guesthouse with an excellent price and family rooms (you've probably noticed that we are experts in selecting charming guesthouses with rooms for 4 people, right?).

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Mycenae

Just over 20 km from Nauplia—about a half-hour drive—lies one of Greece’s most significant archaeological sites: Mycenae.

In the second millennium BC, Mycenae was a major center of Greek civilization and a powerful military force that dominated much of southern Greece. The period from 1600 BC to 1100 BC is even known as the Mycenaean Period because of its influence.

According to Greek mythology, Mycenae was founded by Perseus, the son of my namesake Danae and grandson of King Acrisius of Argos. After accidentally killing his grandfather, Perseus was unable to inherit the throne of Argos and instead settled in the region, establishing Mycenae.

The mythology surrounding Mycenae is rich with stories of wars, love, betrayal, and intrigue—an engaging topic detailed in Wikipedia’s entries..

Equally fascinating are the ruins of Mycenaean civilization that remain today. You can explore what’s left of the acropolis, the ancient walls, and the impressive tombs built from massive stone blocks. These structures were erected around a thousand years before the classical Greek buildings we see today on the Acropolis of Athens. (like the ones we see today on the Acropolis of Athens).

One of the most famous structures in Mycenae is the Lion's Gate, dating back to around 1250 BC, a time when the city was at its peak and exerted influence over much of Greece.

While I recommend spending at least one night in Nauplia to fully explore Mycenae, Epidaurus and Corinth , you can also visit all these sites in a single day trip from Athens, either by car or through an organized tour.

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Day 8 – Sparta and arrival in Kiparissi

Leaving Nauplia, we drove to Sparta for a lunch stop . Despite its historic name, there are only a few remnants of the city’s former grandeur. We were there just long enough to grab a bite, let the children play in a nearby playground, enjoy some ice cream, and then continue on our journey.

From Nauplia to Sparta it is 120km, and from there to Kiparissi it is another 90km, but be prepared – the average speed in this second section should be around 60km, at best.

The road to Kiparissi is a destination in itself. It’s a single-lane route with almost no shoulders, full of twists and turns, and offering breathtaking views. If you enjoy venturing off the beaten path, Kiparissi is the place for you.

It's one of the few beaches where, even in the peak of the Greek summer, you won't be overwhelmed by crowds scrambling for space like at a major concert.

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Kiparissi was where we chose to really enjoy the beach and indulge ourselves in the pleasures of the dolce far niente overlooking the Mediterranean.

However, our stay was short — just two days — because we’re always eager to explore more of the wonders in southern Peloponnese.

We stayed at Atalanti Apartments, a charming guesthouse just half a block from the beach, offering excellent service. Our small one-bedroom apartment featured two single beds in the living room, a double bed in the bedroom, a bathroom, a small kitchen, and a small balcony with a sea view. Not bad at all.

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Days 9 to 12 – Kiparissi, day-trip to Monemvasia and Elafonisos

Out of the four full days we spent in Kiparissi, two were dedicated to enjoying the beach — after all, visiting Greece without experiencing its beautiful sea would be a missed opportunity.

On the remaining days, we took day trips to Monemvasia and Elafonisos.

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Monemvasia

I've already wrote about Monemvasia in this post about 5 unmissable small towns in Europe – just by the title you can already tell how much I liked this charming village on the edge of the Mediterranean.

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Monemvasia is one of those magical places that beckons you to sit at a table, have a drink, and watch life go by. If you manage to get a table with a view of the sea, perfect; if not, the view of the city and the fortress atop the hill are equally spectacular.

Founded in 583, the island town is dominated by a imposing medieval fortress, in the so-called "upper town." Over the centuries, it underwent Byzantine, Arab, Norman, Venetian, Turkish, and Ottoman rule.

In other words, for centuries, Monemvasia was an important port and fortress, contested by the various peoples inhabiting the region, as seen in the ruins and traces found in both the upper and lower towns. The fortress-city was entirely self-sufficient, and its inhabitants could survive for months within the walls if under attack.

We went there just for the day, but now I see that it would have been better to spend at least one night in Monemvasia. Besides not having spent time returning to Kiparissi, staying overnight would have facilitated the trip the next day to Elafonisos - it's only 42km between the two places, but the road is full of curves and it's suggested to allow 1 hour for the journey.

In Monemvasia, there are several charming hotels and guesthouses. I recommend staying on the island, the Ardamis Guesthouse looks like a dream, as does the Bastione Malvasia Hotel. More budget-friendly options can be found on the mainland part of the city, such as the Filoxenia Hotel, very close to the bridge connecting the island to the mainland, the Panorama and several other alternatives - as the main economic activity in the area is tourism, there are options for all tastes and budgets.

If you prefer, there are tours departing from Athens that cover a good part of the route we took through the Peloponnese, including Monemvasia.

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Elafonisos

Imagine crystal-clear, light turquoise water, completely calm, with white sandy beaches in one of the most stunning regions of Greece.

Elafonisos boasts one of the most beautiful and relaxing beaches I've ever visited. Besides soaking up the sun on the beach (where you can rent chairs), swimming, and enjoying the ambiance, there isn’t much else to do except savor the local taverns along the main street of the village.

To get to Elafonisos, head to the village of Vigklafia and take a ferry to the island. We didn’t have to wait for the ferry, but we heard that, depending on the day and time, wait times can exceed an hour.

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On the island, there are some charming lodging options such as Sea and Sand and the Estella Studio. They’re worth checking out!

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Day 13 – Mystras

After leaving Kiparissi, we set off early for Dimitsana, our next destination. However, day 13 of our trip was dedicated to covering the nearly 200 km between the two towns, which included a detour to visit Mystras. Although the distance isn’t particularly long, the roads are single-lane and winding.

Mystras is an ancient fortified town from the Byzantine era, founded in 1249 AD. It reached its peak in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, becoming the second most important center of the Byzantine Empire, after Constantinople. In 1989, it was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Often referred to as the "Wonder of Morea" because it was the capital of the Morea region, Mystras is a stone fortress town offering breathtaking views. With some well-preserved buildings adorned with mosaics, it provides a fascinating glimpse into this period of Greek history.

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We arrived in Dimitsana late in the afternoon and stayed at Kazakou Guesthouse, a family-run bed and breakfast in a historic stone house. It was truly exceptional! In terms of authenticity, it was the most intriguing accommodation we experienced on the trip.

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Day 14 – Dimitsana

Dimitsana was a delightful surprise on our 15-day itinerary through the Peloponnese. It hadn't been part of our original plans.

While on our Greek road trip, we spoke with other travelers and locals who recommended this village in the Arcadian mountains, situated 1.000 meters above sea level. A quick online search convinced us to swap a day at the beach for a chance to explore the Peloponnese mountains.

Our visit was truly memorable. If you find yourself overwhelmed by the crowds on Greek beaches during summer and the intense heat, consider exploring one of these mountain villages. They are rich in history, full of charming traditional houses, and boast family-run restaurants serving some of the most delicious food we had in Greece. These hidden gems add a special touch to any trip.

Dimitsana is entirely built of stone—houses, Orthodox churches, public buildings, shops, and restaurants all maintain traditional architectural styles.

Beyond the village’s charm, the region is worth visiting for its monasteries perched on the slopes of the Lousios River valleys. The Filosofos Monastery, founded in 963, is the oldest in the Arcadia region.

The Prodromos Monastery, built into the hillside, is particularly striking with its balconies and corridors seemingly suspended from the rocks. It is possible to go up and visit the chapel, the views up there are incredible, and the monks who greeted us were very welcoming.

A half-hour walk along a trail from the Prodromos Monastery passing through the gorge in front of the Philosophical Monastery leads to the so-called Secret School (kryfo scholio), which operated covertly during Ottoman rule. The approximately 800-meter trail is steep but well-marked. Although we turned back halfway — due to the children’s fatigue and the late hour — it’s a worthwhile hike for those who can continue.

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In addition to Dimitsana, other noteworthy stops in the area include Vitina, Stemnitsa, Karitena and Valtesiniko. The mountains also offer several options for rafting and trekking.

After leaving Dimitsana in the mid-afternoon, we arrived in Athens by evening. The 200 km drive took just over 2 hours.

For convenience on our last night in Athens, we stayed at the Plaka Hotel. We spent the evening exploring the Plaka area, savoring our final dinner in Greece, and beginning to dream about our next visit.

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Day 15 – Athens and return home

Our flight from Athens was very early, heading to Rome for a 9-hour layover. During this time, we enjoyed a nice lunch, some gelato, and took a photo at the Trevi Fountain before catching our evening flight to Brazil.

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Other suggestions

While this itinerary worked well, I would suggest a minor adjustment: add two nights in Monemvasia with a day trip to Elafonisos, or spend one night in Monemvasia and one in Elafonisos. Other than that, I wouldn’t change anything.

If you have more time in Greece, I highly recommend visiting Meteora. It’s about 240 km from Delphi or 350 km from Athens. A visit to Meteora would require at least three days, though even then, exploring the monasteries might feel a bit rushed. In a 20-day itinerary, including Meteora would be perfect! And, of course, you could indulge in island hopping, there are amazing beaches for families in Greece!

Greece is a year-round destination with activities for every season. From island hopping in summer to exploring ancient ruins and hiking in cooler months, there’s always something to enjoy, whether it's beaches, history, or culture.

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Detailed itinerary with map – 15 days around mainland Greece

Here is the Google MyMaps map, with our detailed itinerary, just click and save to your Google account. When you plan your next trip to Greece, you already know where to start 😉

In this post, I explain how I use Google MyMaps to plan my trips. It’s an amazing tool for saving locations, calculating routes and distances, and organizing your entire journey. I highly recommend giving it a try!

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