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How I’d longed to visit Iceland! I’d already tried twice. Both attempts fell through before I even bought the plane tickets.
The first was back in the early 2000s, when it was almost impossible to find information about off-the-beaten-path destinations, and everyone thought I was crazy for wanting to go somewhere they couldn’t even point to on a map. Mission aborted.
In 2022, with Iceland already booming as a travel destination, I decided to try again. But I left the planning until the last minute, and everything was fully booked and eye-wateringly expensive — so expensive that we ended up going to Norway, which, let’s be honest, isn’t exactly cheap.
First of all, follow me on Instagram @danae_explore – that’s where you can keep up with my trips, find lots of travel tips, and send me a DM anytime. I love chatting about travel!
From then on, I wanted to go more than ever. Volcanoes, glaciers, geysers, northern lights, and landscapes unlike anything I had ever seen. For anyone who loves nature and geography and doesn’t mind the cold, Iceland is a true playground.
When I finally set foot on the island, practically halfway between Europe and North America, our first encounter with its volcanoes took place in a cinema: right in Reykjavík, in the basement of Harpa, we watched a 15-minute film about the country’s recent volcanic eruptions. The next day, as we left the capital to begin our road trip, we spotted Perlan’s dome and stopped to visit the museum, with its exhibits on volcanoes, rocks, and glaciers, and even an artificial ice cave.
What at first seemed like “just another film, just another museum” appeared before us, in full color, over the days that followed: in the basalt columns by the sea, the ground fractured by fissures at Þingvellir, the moss-covered lava fields, the beach where ice meets the ocean, and inside a blue cave that changes along with the glacier.
In Iceland, geology isn’t confined to books or relegated to the background: it unfolds right in front of you. Volcanoes, fissures, lava, ice, and water shape the landscape, as well as the way you travel through the country.
In this post, I’ve brought together the places and experiences that best revealed this ever-changing Iceland. Our eight-day road trip took us through the south and southeast, as well as the Snæfellsnes Peninsula in western Iceland, combining the best-known attractions with a few less obvious stops. You’ll find the complete day-by-day route, with suggestions for five- to nine-day trips, in this other post on the blog.
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Our Iceland itinerary
We spent eight days in Iceland and did a wonderful road trip through the south and southeast, as well as the Snæfellsnes Peninsula in western Iceland. There’s another post here on the blog with our detailed itinerary and suggestions in case you have a few days more or less to explore the island.
In short, our itinerary looked like this:
1️⃣ Arrival at Keflavik Airport, pick up your rental car. Explore Reykjavik and spend the night at Hotel Odinsve.
2️⃣ Waterfalls along the South Coast; overnight at Vík Apartments, next to Hotel Vík í Mýrdal.
3️⃣ Explore the Vík area; overnight at Fosshotel Glacier Lagoon.
4️⃣ Visit Vatnajökull Glacier, Diamond Beach, and Jökulsárlón; stay again at Fosshotel Glacier Lagoon.
5️⃣ Return toward Selfoss; overnight at Hotel Selfoss.
6️⃣ Golden Circle; overnight at Hotel Hamar.
7️⃣ Snæfellsnes Peninsula; overnight at Hotel Snaefellsnes.
8️⃣ Blue Lagoon and Reykjavik; overnight at Hotel Local 101.
On the last morning, wake up early to return the car, our flight took off at 10 a.m.
Looking for tips to plan your trip to Iceland? You’ll find everything in this post – the same questions I had while planning my trip (and that you probably have too): When’s the best time to go? Is it easy to drive around? Should you rent a car or a campervan? What’s the best way to get there? What should you pack? And do you need cash?
In short, click here and you’ll find all the answers. And if you still have questions, just send me a message on Instagram @danae_explore.
To rent a car, I always use RentCars, where I usually find the best options, and with the DANAE promo code you still get an additional 5% off. Shall we go?
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What to do in Iceland
What to do in Reykjavik
Reykjavik is one of the smallest capitals in Europe, a lovely, compact, and charming little city.
We didn’t spend much time there, just the late afternoon on the day we arrived (tired from the flight and struggling with jet lag), and then again on our last afternoon, already exhausted from so many days of travel and in that “end-of-the-trip, back-to-reality” mood. Still, even with little time and energy, we managed to visit the city’s main highlights.
Reykjavik is best explored on foot. Park your car, ideally on a street with free parking (look for P3 signs; it’s free on weekends). Download the Parka app to handle parking directly from your phone.
A great option is to join a guided walking tour of downtown Reykjavik, even better if it’s a free walking tour. I love this type of experience, it’s such a great way to get an introduction to the city. You learn and enjoy much more than just wandering around on your own. This time, we skipped it because the tours only ran in the morning, and we arrived in the city later in the day 🙁
On this map, you’ll find all the points mentioned below marked and ready to save directly to your Google Maps.
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Main attractions we visited in Reykjavik
Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur – the world-famous Icelandic hot dog, and probably the cheapest meal you’ll find on the island. Don’t miss it, it’s truly unique and delicious.
Skólavörðustígur – the rainbow street that connects the town center to the Hallgrímskirkja church.
Hallgrímskirkja – Cathedral consecrated in 1986, with a 73-meter tower inspired by the basalt columns so characteristic of the country.
Harpa Concert Hall – A cultural center in an iconic iron-and-glass building. It’s worth going inside and exploring. In the basement, we watched the film “The Volcano Express,” about Iceland’s geology and recent volcanic eruptions; it was a great introduction to the trip. The presentation lasts 15 minutes, has several showings throughout the day, and costs approximately USD 20.
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Sun Voyager – A steel sculpture shaped like a Viking ship, right by the sea.
Laugavegur – A commercial street full of small shops, bars, and restaurants. We had a hamburger at Kröns and picked up some sweets at Sandholt.
Old port region – revitalized, another lively area full of shops and restaurants, near the intersection of Lækjargata and Geirsgata streets and close to Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur. We walked around there quite a bit on our last day of the trip, a sunny Saturday with pleasant temperatures. The bars and restaurants were packed, lots of people on the streets, super lively. We had dinner at Posthús Food Hall & Bar, a kind of indoor food court.
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Alþingishúsið – the Icelandic Parliament, with a pleasant square in front and several restaurants around it.
Perlan – a mix of science museum and natural history museum. We stopped by chance after seeing it from the road as we left Reykjavik, and it was a pleasant surprise. It has several exhibits on Iceland’s geology, fauna and flora, and history. There’s also an ice-cave simulator – which we later found to be quite underwhelming compared to visiting a real ice cave. We bought our tickets on the spot, but you can also buy them online in advance on the official website.
Sky Lagoon – A thermal pool very close to Reykjavik’s city center. We didn’t go because we chose the Blue Lagoon instead. It’s recommended to buy tickets in advance on the official website or through aggregators like Civitatis.
Blue Lagoon – Located 50 km from Reykjavik and 23 km from Keflavik Airport. It’s a large interconnected complex of thermal pools with turquoise blue water. The facilities are excellent, with changing rooms, bathrooms, a snack bar, and a small shop selling (extremely overpriced!) mineral beauty products. We bought our tickets online on the official website. I recommend purchasing as far in advance as possible because it fills up quickly. If you prefer, you can visit with a tour departing from Reykjavik.
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Where to stay in Reykjavik
We stayed two nights in Reykjavik. On the first night of the trip, we stayed at Hotel Odinsve. The hotel has an excellent location, close to Rainbow Street and Hallgrímskirkja Church. We booked the family room, which was actually a two-bedroom apartment, perfect! The breakfast included in the room rate was excellent, a real plus given the high cost of food in Iceland.
On the last night of our Iceland itinerary, we returned to the capital and stayed at Hotel Local 101. It’s a compact hotel, with very small rooms and a tiny bathroom, the smallest bathroom I’ve ever seen in a hotel (and we’ve stayed in very compact places in many destinations, as Tokyo, for example). There wasn’t space to open the suitcase, but it was fine for just one night and it was much cheaper than Hotel Odinsve. The location is great, close to the old port area, just a few meters from the bustle. Overall, it was a good value for money.
Other options I had considered for staying in Reykjavik were Hotel Von and Center Hotels Laugavegur, both excellently located on Laugavegur Street.
It’s also worth checking out Grandi by Center Hotels, still in the central area but a little farther from the hustle and bustle, with what looks like excellent value for money.
An option with a great location and a more affordable price is Old Town Reykjavik.
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What to do in the Golden Circle
The Golden Circle, the country’s main tourist destination, is a circuit of approximately 200 km showcasing a little bit of everything Iceland has to offer. Waterfalls, volcanoes, geysers, and incredible landscapes everywhere you look. If you only have time for one trip in Iceland, make it this one (obviously, it would be a huge waste to visit Iceland and stay only one day, but you get the idea).
We did the Golden Circle starting in Selfoss and ending near Reykjavik, you can find our complete itinerary here. However, it is possible (and usually more common) to do the opposite. Many travelers arrive on the island, rent a car, and go straight from the airport to the Golden Circle without even stopping in the capital (which, although not my choice, I recommend for those with limited time).
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To rent a car, I always use RentCars, where I usually find the best options, and with the DANAE promo code you still get an additional 5% off. Shall we go?
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The main stops are (in order from Selfoss):
Kerid Crater – Volcanic crater with a lake; it’s worth walking all the way around the rim and going down to the lake.
Skálholtsdómkirkja – Historic church.
Secret Lagoon or Gamla Laugin – The oldest thermal pool in Iceland and a more economical alternative to the Blue Lagoon. We didn’t visit it. Nearby there is also Hrunalaug, a smaller and simpler thermal pool.
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Lunch at the restaurant Fridheimar – A farm that grows tomatoes in greenhouses heated with geothermal energy. I recommend booking in advance through the official website.
Strokkur Geysir – The original geyser, which gave the name to the entire category, erupts every 5–8 minutes. Free entry, paid parking (use the Parka app).
Gullfoss – or “the Golden Waterfall”, is one of Iceland’s largest waterfalls, comprising two drops: one eleven meters high and the other twenty meters high, totaling 31 meters.
Bruararfoss – A small waterfall with strikingly clear blue water, known as the bluest waterfall in Iceland.
Laugarvatn Fontana – A thermal pool complex with pools at different temperatures. It is currently closed and scheduled to reopen in April 2026, according to the official website.
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Þingvellir National Park
Þingvellir National Park is unique in the world. Here, the movement of the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates is visible in the landscape: the park lies in a region crisscrossed by fissures and faults. Almannagjá, which we walked through soon after entering, marks one side of this broad rift valley. It isn’t a single crack with one continent on each side, but a network of fractures spread over several kilometers. And you can walk through some of them, seeing up close the marks of a movement that is still taking place.
There are several walking paths through the main areas of the park; I recommend doing as many as your time allows. They’re generally very easy, many of them on wooden walkways. Don’t miss Öxarárfoss, a charming waterfall along one of the park’s faults (to visit it, we parked at parking lot P2).
It’s possible to go snorkeling in the crystal-clear waters of the Silfra fissure (here’s a booking option). Although many people spoke very highly of the experience, I didn’t think it would be worth the price; in the end, we didn’t miss it at all. It would also have taken up too much time, which we preferred to spend exploring other parts of the park.
We also visited Þingvallakirkja (Þingvellir Church). Churches have stood on this site since shortly after Iceland adopted Christianity around the year 1000, while the building we see today dates from 1859. It stands next to the country’s prime minister’s summer residence.
Þingvellir also has enormous historical significance: this is where the Alþingi, Iceland’s parliament and one of the oldest still in existence, was founded in 930. I think that sums up the country perfectly: one of its most important historical events took place inside a geological rift.
There are several parking lots in the park; to visit the main areas near the Visitor Center, we parked at P5 (near Silfra).
If you don’t want to rent a car, you can take a Golden Circle tour from Reykjavík, like this one here.
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Where to stay in the Golden Circle
We started the Golden Circle in Selfoss, where we stayed at the Hotel Selfoss, which I imagine is the largest in the town. We booked a quadruple room with a queen bed and a double sofa bed, and it turned out to be quite comfortable.
The Hotel Selfoss is located across from the revitalized historic area of the town, where there is a small square surrounded by traditional Icelandic-style buildings that have been converted into restaurants, bars, and small shops. I found the area charming and lovely to walk around. We were just a bit unlucky with the weather, as it was very cold and drizzling, so we couldn’t enjoy it much. It must be very pleasant in the late afternoon when the sun is out. The Old Dairy Food Hall is a food court with several food stalls and is where you’re most likely to find a meal at an affordable price.
There are other options in the town of Selfoss, such as Hotel South Coast. There are also some accommodation options along the Golden Circle. I had my eye on the Hotel Skálholt and the Blue Hotel Fagrilundur, both near the Geysir area, but I felt that staying in the small town of Selfoss would work better for our itinerary and be more enjoyable overall. The Hotel Gullfoss, located near the waterfall of the same name, looks amazing for those hoping to see the Northern Lights.
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What to do on the south coast of Iceland
We spent three days exploring the southern region of Iceland, which is the most visited by tourists and where the most beautiful waterfalls in the country are located. Many people travel to Iceland and stay only in that area, either due to lack of time or simply not knowing what else there is to see in the rest of the country. The first case is understandable; the second is a real shame – but luckily you found this article, because I don’t hold back on sharing information here!
So here we go, with all the places we stopped at (and some we would have liked to stop at) on our trip through southern Iceland. The attractions are listed in order, starting in Reykjavik and ending in Vik i Myrdal.
This is the part of the trip that’s going to be absolutely amazing. Those stunning waterfalls you see so often on social media are right here in front of you, ready to leave you speechless.
Caves of Hella
Caves carved out by Iceland’s first inhabitants (we did not visit). More information at the official website.
Lava Center
An informative, hands-on center about Icelandic geological phenomena. Since we had already been to Perlan, we skipped this one, but it looks very interesting. Check the official website for more info.
Seljalandsfoss
The waterfall I liked most in Iceland! You can walk behind the waterfall: we got soaked and almost froze, but it was one of the most fun parts of the trip. Entry is free, but parking is paid (ISK 1,000 – approx. USD 8, via the Parka app or at the on-site kiosks).
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Gljúfrabúi
Leave your car parked at Seljalandsfoss and walk a few meters along a trail that begins on the left side of the waterfall. Enter a small canyon and prepare to be amazed! A stunning waterfall, hidden among the rock walls. We were already wet and got even wetter, but it was totally worth it.
Skogafoss
I think this is the Icelandic waterfall I’ve seen the most photos of on social media. It’s not surprising, since the place is spectacular and access from the highway is incredibly easy. As with other waterfalls, you only pay for parking (use the Parka app). There’s a staircase on the side that goes up to the top of the waterfall, where a trail begins with dozens of other waterfalls. We climbed the steps but realized we wouldn’t have enough time to do the trail and return to the hotel in Vik before dark. There’s a museum next to the waterfall, but we didn’t go in.
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Kvernufoss
Just a few meters from Skogafoss, but with a fraction of the visitors, is another waterfall that makes you certain the trip to Iceland was worthwhile.
Sólheimajökull Glacier
This was the first glacier we visited in Iceland! It’s a short and easy walk from the parking lot to the glacier viewpoint.
Solheimasandur Plane Wreck
The famous American military plane that crashed on the beach in 1973 and has remained there ever since. It’s a 3 km walk each way, partly on sand, to reach the plane. There’s the option of taking a van for ISK 3,200 per person (approximately USD 25). It didn’t seem like a good idea to me; we didn’t go, and I don’t regret it.
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Where to stay on Iceland’s South Coast
To visit this region, I recommend staying in Selfoss or Vik i Myrdal. However, there are some hotels along the south coast of Iceland, such as Hótel Skógafoss by EJ Hotels and Hotel Selja. We stopped for lunch at Midgard Base Camp, which is another hotel option in the region.
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What to do in Vík í Mýrdal
We arrived in Vík í Mýrdal at the end of the day and settled into our accommodation, Vík Apartments (attached to Hotel Vík í Mýrdal). We took advantage of having a fully equipped kitchen to save money on meals and had dinner at home. The next day, we spent the morning around Vík and headed east toward Jökulsárlón in the afternoon.
Here are the main attractions around Vík and along Iceland’s south and southeast coast:
Reynisfjara Beach
Iceland’s most famous black sand beach — and it truly lives up to the hype. The sea is rough, so be careful. On the left side of the beach are the even more famous basalt columns known as Garðar. Farther along the beach, you’ll find the beautiful Hálsanefshellir Cave, while the Reynisdrangar sea stacks, the beach’s trademark rock formations, rise from the ocean.
UPDATE — AUGUST 2026: The beach I describe above is no longer the same. In February 2026, a landslide on the slopes of Reynisfjall, combined with an entire winter of easterly winds rather than the usual southwesterly winds, radically reshaped this stretch of coastline. Much of the strip of sand that provided a buffer disappeared, and rocks that had been buried reemerged.
The beach remains open, and the sand has been returning, but access to the cave and columns depends on sea conditions and may be closed. Since a visitor died there in August 2025, these areas are also closed whenever a red alert is in effect. Check the conditions on the day of your visit at SafeTravel.is, and follow the warning lights, signs, and barriers at the beach.
I’ve left the original passage above unchanged because this note is the best proof of what I say at the end of this post: between my trip and today, one of the most photographed beaches in the world has changed, and anyone who visits now will see a different landscape from the one I saw.
Kirkjufjara Beach
Another black sand beach, next to Reynisfjara (but you cannot walk from one to the other).
Icelandic Lava Show
It’s a kind of scientific-theatrical presentation, with real lava. Despite being well rated, it seemed like a tourist trap to me. We didn’t go. If you want to try it, here’s the link. There is also a similar show in Reykjavík.
Vík í Mýrdal Church
Located on a hilltop, it offers the best views of the town and Reynisfjara. I highly recommend it. You can go on foot or by car; parking is free. Walk up to the small cemetery, where the views — including the church — are even better.
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Eldhraun Lava Field
Leaving Vík and heading east toward Jökulsárlón, the road crosses this lava field, formed by the Laki eruption of 1783–1784, one of the largest lava flows in recorded history. This wasn’t a volcano in the shape we usually imagine: a fissure stretching about 25 kilometers opened in the ground, with more than a hundred craters erupting over eight months. In the years that followed, famine is estimated to have killed about a fifth of Iceland’s population, while the sulfur haze reached continental Europe.
Today, much of the lava is covered in slow-growing moss. It may look soft and sturdy, but it’s extremely fragile, and a single footprint can remain visible for years. There’s a viewpoint along the road; stop only at designated viewpoints and pull-offs, and stay on the marked paths.
Fjaðrárgljúfur
A beautiful canyon, with the Mögáfoss waterfall at the end. It’s a short, well-marked hike with an uphill stretch at the beginning, but it’s quite easy.
Foss á Síðu
Another beautiful waterfall, with basalt columns typical of Icelandic geology.
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Where to stay in Vik i Myrdal
We stayed one night at Vík Apartments, attached to Hotel Vík í Mýrdal. I found it excellent: a two-bedroom apartment, very spacious, and right across from a Krónan supermarket. It was the best value for money I found in the area.
Other options include the gorgeous Hotel Kría and, in a more economical range, the 1908 Hostels and Vik Inn, located side by side in the city center.
Since there’s just a few places to stay around the area, check availability and prices on this map:
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What to do in southeast Iceland – Jökulsárlón and Diamond Beach
One of the things I most wanted to do in Iceland was to visit an ice cave. I’d seen glaciers before: the first was the Perito Moreno Glacier in Argentina, and when we went to Alaska, we didn’t just see two glaciers, we hiked on both of them! But an ice cave was still on my wishlist.
So, our main focus in this region was a full-day tour combining an ice cave with a glacier hike on Breiðamerkurjökull, one of Vatnajökull’s outlet glaciers. We went with Glacier Adventure. I booked directly through their website (this isn’t sponsored), but you’ll also find options on platforms such as GetYourGuide and Civitatis.
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Ice cave in Breiðamerkurjökull, Vatnajökull
We took the tour in a group of nine, and our guide was a 24-year-old Czech woman who was studying geology back home. She explained how meltwater carves tunnels through the glacier. In the winter cold, the flow decreases, and some of those passages may become accessible. When temperatures rise, the water begins flowing more strongly again and conditions change: the tunnels can flood, entrances can shift, and parts of the ceiling can collapse.
The caves change along with the glacier, so every year the guides have to assess the conditions and scout the routes before taking visitors inside. It isn’t simply a matter of returning to the same place and expecting to find the same passage.
We went on April 29, the final day of Glacier Adventure’s season that year — yes, I planned our entire Iceland itinerary around making sure we could visit the ice cave.
Inside the cave, it’s cold and damp (fairly obvious, I know). But contrary to what I’d imagined, the ground we walked over wasn’t ice. It was soaked gravel, large rocks mixed with loose stones that crunched underfoot. We had to pay attention, stepping around puddles and trickles of water, watching where we put our feet, and taking care not to hit our heads. A little complicated for someone as uncoordinated as me, but fascinating.
The photo above, with the four of us silhouetted against the light, was taken near one of the cave’s openings, different from the one we entered through. A rope about 10 meters from the opening marked the risk area and showed us how far we could go. From there, we could see water dripping everywhere. Our guide explained that the section near the opening, beyond the rope, could collapse at any moment. The changing glacier was no longer something we’d learned about in a museum: it was happening right there in front of us.
We walked through several tunnels and chambers inside the ice cave and, at one point, our guide asked everyone to switch off their headlamps. Light from outside passed through the layers of ice and reached us as the faintest blue-green glow, almost nothing. A few meters farther on, we switched them off again, and this time it was completely dark.
Remember the ice-cave simulator at Perlan? Well, no simulator comes within even 1% of the real experience.
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Glacier hike on Breiðamerkurjökull
After visiting the cave, it was time to strap on our crampons and walk on Breiðamerkurjökull, part of Vatnajökull, Europe’s largest ice cap by volume. Our tour included only a “glacier walk,” but our Czech guide, who was going home the next day, made us an offer we couldn’t refuse. It was the last day of the season, the weather was beautiful, with sunshine and not a cloud in the sky, and the nine people in our group were all relatively “fit.” How about hiking all the way to where the glacier meets Jökulsárlón lagoon?
I have to admit, it was a demanding hike. Walking on a glacier is nothing like going for a stroll around the block. Once the crampons are fitted, you have to step “with conviction,” driving the spikes into the ice, and follow exactly in the guide’s footsteps because the ice can be extremely thin. You can’t see it from a distance, but the terrain is very uneven, with fissures and openings everywhere. One wrong move and, in the best-case scenario, you twist an ankle. The way there was almost entirely uphill, but reaching the edge of the lagoon, with only our group in the middle of that frozen immensity, was one of those moments when you pinch yourself to make sure it’s real.
It was the day before my 51st birthday. It was the best present I’ve ever received and one of the most extraordinary experiences of my life. And there’s something I only fully understood afterward: none of it can ever be repeated exactly as it was. The cave changes, the glacier moves, and the spot where we stopped at the edge of the lagoon is transformed along with them. There’s no way to recreate that day. And I’ll never be 50 again.
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Diamond Beach and Jökulsárlón
After the tour, we picked up our car and visited Diamond Beach, the famous beach scattered with pieces of ice that you’ve almost certainly seen all over social media.
When we went, there were only a few pieces of ice on the beach, but the sight still defies comprehension: how can there be ice on a beach?
The answer is less poetic and more fascinating than it might seem. Jökulsárlón began to form around the 1930s in the space left behind as the glacier retreated, and today it is Iceland’s deepest lake. At Perlan, we’d seen an exhibition about the retreat of Vatnajökull and the formation of the lagoon over the years; now we were standing in the landscape whose transformation we’d learned about in the museum. These “diamonds” are blocks of ice that break away from Breiðamerkurjökull, pass through the lagoon, reach the ocean, and may be washed back onto the beach by the waves and tides.
There was no way to know why so little ice had washed onto the beach that day, but that did nothing to lessen the wonder of finding those blocks on the black sand.
If the beach had almost no ice, the lagoon, by contrast, was filled with icebergs and, best of all, several groups of seals. It was packed with tourists, the most we saw anywhere on our trip — and remember, we were traveling in the off-season.
South of Jökulsárlón is another iceberg lagoon, Fjallsárlón, smaller and with far fewer visitors than its larger sibling. With so much packed into that day, we left it for a future visit.
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To rent a car, I always use RentCars, where I usually find the best options, and with the DANAE promo code you still get an additional 5% off. Shall we go?
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Other attractions in southeast Iceland
In addition to these attractions, I had planned to visit Múlagljúfur Canyon. But after a whole day at the glacier and the lagoon, we were simply exhausted and decided to head straight back to Fosshotel Glacier Lagoon. From what I’ve researched, it seems to be a beautiful canyon, with a moderate hike of about 2.2 km each way.
Between Vík í Mýrdal and Diamond Beach, it’s worth stopping to see Hofskirkja, a historic church with a turf-covered roof.
I also recommend stopping by the Skaftafellsstofa Visitor Center. The site features exhibits and information about the geology and geography of the area, its flora and fauna, and the history of the Skaftafell region; there is a small souvenir shop, a café, and restrooms. A few hiking routes start there, but we didn’t do any of them.
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Where to stay in the Jökulsárlón and Diamond Beach area
We stayed two nights at Fosshotel Glacier Lagoon, a hotel with modern Scandinavian design, in the middle of absolutely nowhere, on the edge of the Ring Road a little south of Jökulsárlón. The hotel is great, a bit more sophisticated (and expensive) than what we usually stay at, but it was one of the only options in the area and fit perfectly into our itinerary.
There is limited accommodation available in this region. Hotel Jökulsárlón follows the same style as the Fosshotel — impeccable design and matching prices; the Hali Country Hotel seems a bit more economical.
Other options would be in Vík í Mýrdal or farther east in Höfn, where some places that look interesting are Hotel Höfn, Höfn Berjaya Iceland Hotels and, as a more economical option, the Apotek Guesthouse. The Fosshotel chain also has one in Höfn, the Fosshotel Vatnajökull.
Have a look at the map below to check prices and availability:
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What to do on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula
The thing to do on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula is to drive the complete loop. Follow Route 54 and, near Búðir, take a secondary coastal road (it’s paved, don’t worry) through Snæfellsjökull National Park, dominated by the Snæfellsjökull volcano and glacier — which, as a fun fact, is where Otto Lidenbrock, a character in Jules Verne’s novel, begins his journey to the center of the Earth.
There are several viewpoints and rest stops along the way. Here are the main points of interest, starting from Borgarnes and traveling clockwise around the peninsula:
– Gerðuberg Cliffs: basalt columns.
– Ytri Tunga: a beach with a seal colony. When we visited, there were dozens of them, and they were far too cute! It was one of our favorite stops on the peninsula. The photos below give you an idea, but seeing so many together in their own environment was truly special.
– Bjarnarfoss Waterfall: free parking; it’s a 15-minute walk to the bridge viewpoint, but you can also go down to the base of the waterfall.
– Búðakirkja Church: a beautiful black wooden church with traditional Icelandic architecture.
– Rauðfeldsgjá Gorge: you can walk inside the gorge (bring a raincoat; it gets very wet).
– Arnarstapi: a picturesque village with restaurants and the start of the Gatklettur walking path, which leads to the stone monument to Bárður Snæfellsás.
– Hellnar Church and lookout point.
– Lóndrangar Viewpoint: a viewpoint over cliffs where seabirds nest.
– Snæfellsjökull National Park Visitor Center at Malarrif: we stopped here; there are exhibits about the park and traditional life in the region, as well as information about hiking routes and viewpoints.
– Vatnshellir Cave: a lava cave; the visit lasts 45 minutes (we didn’t do it).
– Djúpalónssandur and Dritvík: another black sand beach with a beautiful viewpoint.
– Saxhóll Crater: you can’t miss this stop; the crater is visible from afar. From below, the staircase looks endless, and the girls immediately protested: “Oh no, I’m not climbing that. There are too many steps!” Honestly, looking up from there was a little discouraging. But we started climbing slowly, chatting as we went, and before we knew it, we were at the top. Besides seeing the crater up close, the climb gives you a broad view of the surrounding landscape. It was well worth it.
– Þjóðgarðsmiðstöð á Hellissandi Visitor Center: we stopped here as well; there are panels about the region, restrooms, a small café, and a little shop.
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– Hellissandur: a village famous for the murals on its walls; it’s worth a visit.
– Svöðufoss and Kerlingarfoss Waterfalls (we didn’t go).
– We stopped in Ólafsvík for lunch at Sker Restaurant. We went in expecting something simple, but the restaurant was beautifully appointed, almost too sophisticated for a fishing village in a place that feels close to the end of the world, and the food was excellent. What was meant to be just a stop to satisfy our hunger became one of the day’s best memories.
You can also take whale-watching tours from Ólafsvík, but it’s essential to book in advance. As we had recently seen whales in Ushuaia and Alaska, we skipped this one (we were recommended Laki Tours, with tours departing at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m.).
– Snæfellsjökull Glacier Viewpoint (it’s also possible to reach it from the other side, starting from Saxhóll and passing by some waterfalls).
– Kirkjufellsfoss, one of Iceland’s most famous waterfalls, forming a striking landscape with the mountain behind it. It has been the setting for several productions, including Game of Thrones.
– Grundarfjörður, another charming little town, worth stopping for a coffee.
– Berserkjahraun, a lava field just before the junction of Routes 54 and 56.
– Continuing along Route 54, you arrive in Stykkishólmur, a port town with an iconic lighthouse. If you want to return to Reykjavík, the best option from this area is to cross the peninsula on Route 56 before continuing south.
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Where to stay on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula
Some travelers visit Snæfellsnes on a day trip from Reykjavík, on tours like this, but it felt like a very long day to me. We preferred breaking the route in two: we spent the night in Borgarnes at the Hotel Hamar, and after completing the peninsula loop, we stayed at Hotel Snæfellsnes, right at the junction of Routes 54 and 56.
Stykkishólmur is also a great place to stay. It’s the largest town on the peninsula and has more infrastructure. In our case, looking at our Iceland itinerary, we needed to leave early the next morning and drive straight toward the Blue Lagoon, so staying at Hotel Snæfellsnes made more sense logistically. I usually prefer staying in small towns rather than in isolated areas, but in this case convenience won. Still, Stykkishólmur looks lovely for an overnight stop. And if you plan to continue toward the Westfjords, it’s where several ferries depart. Good options there include The Stykkishólmur Inn and Hotel Fransiskus Stykkishólmi.
Ólafsvík, where we stopped for lunch at Sker Restaurant, also has a few accommodation options, such as Hotel Vest Mar.
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The Iceland I saw no longer exists
Over the course of 20-odd years, I tried twice to go to Iceland and, for one reason or another, didn’t make it. I keep wondering what I would have seen in the early 2000s, and then in 2022, and the answer is: a different country. Jökulsárlón would have been smaller. The caves and routes across the ice would have been different. Maybe a volcano would have been erupting.
It’s not that it was worth the wait. It’s that there is no right time to go, because there is no one definitive Iceland to see. There is only the Iceland that exists on the day you arrive. It won’t be the same as the photo you saw on social media, or the ones I’ve included in this post, or the Iceland portrayed in The Secret Life of Walter Mitty. It will be your Iceland, yours alone.
Go soon. Then go back. A new Iceland will be waiting for you.
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Our eight-day Iceland itinerary
The map below shows our complete itinerary in Iceland — we drove 1,500 km over eight days, and in this post you’ll find the full day-by-day breakdown, along with suggestions in case you have a little more — or a little less — time in Iceland.
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How to use this map: Click the menu tab in the upper left corner of the map to access different layers, including points of interest and routes. You can toggle layers on and off by checking the corresponding boxes. To see details about specific locations, click on the icons on the map.
To save this map to your Google Maps account, just click the star icon next to the map title. To access it later on your phone or computer, open Google Maps, tap the menu button, go to “Your Places”, select “Maps”, and you’ll find this map saved there.
Here are the websites I always use to plan my trips:
– 🛌 Accommodation: Booking
– ☀️ Tours & activities: Civitatis & Get Your Guide
– 📱 eSIM for mobile data: Airalo e-SIM – use promo code DANAE2375
– 🚗 Car rental: RentCars – use promo code DANAE, or DiscoverCars
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Posts to inspire and help you travel to Scandinavia:
- The best of Norway in 12 days: our complete itinerary
- Is it expensive to travel in Norway? Smart strategies to reduce the cost of your trip
- Preikestolen with children – what it’s like to hike the most beautiful trail in Norway
- 5 unmissable small towns in Europe
- Our 8-day Iceland itinerary – and suggestions for 5-9 days
- What to do in Iceland: the best of the south and east of the island
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And here our posts about other destinations in Europe:
Greece
- The best itinerary for a 15-day road trip around mainland Greece
- What to do in 2 or 3 days in Athens
- 5 unmissable small towns in Europe
Spain
- 10 days in Andalucia – Our itinerary through southern Spain
- What to do in 2 days in Granada, Spain
- Ronda, the most charming city in Southern Spain
Balkans: Croatia, Serbia, Montenegro and Bosnia-Herzegovina
- Ultimate guide to Kotor, Montenegro: what to do, where to stay, when to go, and much more
- Mostar – what to do in the most charming city in Bosnia and Herzegovina
- 20-day itinerary through the Balkans, in Eastern Europe – Serbia, Montenegro, Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina
- What to do in Sarajevo: 1 or 2-day itinerary in the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina
Portugal
- Portugal in two weeks: our complete itinerary and tips
- One week in the Azores – Complete itinerary with Sao Miguel, Pico and Terceira Islands
- São Miguel, Azores: your complete guide to the largest island in the Azores
- Pico Island – complete guide to visiting the most picturesque island in the Azores
- Terceira Island (Azores) – itinerary and tips
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