Cartagena was the most anticipated stop (at least for me) on our 12-day trip to Colombia. A beautiful coastal town, full of history, art, and culture, with great food, coffee breaks and sunset drinks, not to mention the picture-perfect beaches with turquoise water and white sand just around the corner. But… did it live up to the hype?
Join me as I share what to do in Cartagena de Indias, where to stay, how to get around and make the most of the beaches along the Colombian Caribbean coast.
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How to get to Cartagena de Indias, Colombia
We were in Bogotá, from where you can travel to Cartagena by plane or bus. Since it’s a 21+ hour bus ride, we flew with VivaAir, a low-cost airline (now bankrupt!). Everything went smoothly on the flight, which lasted around 1.5 hours.
The airport in Cartagena is not far from the Old Town, and we took a taxi on arrival — not the friendliest driver in the world, but it all worked out.
Colombia’s main airline is Avianca, which connects Bogotá with all major cities in South and Central America, as well as major hubs in the US and Europe. We flew from São Paulo, Brazil, to Bogotá with Avianca on a direct flight, and everything went well.
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Where to stay in Cartagena, Colombia
Cartagena was one of the stops on the trip we took to Colombia, which also included the country’s capital, Bogotá, and a few days at the most beautiful beaches in mainland Colombia, in Tayrona National Park.
In Cartagena, we chose to stay in an apartment. As in the other destinations on this trip we would be staying in hotels, this was the place where we opted for a house to enjoy the benefits of (1) having more space and privacy, and (2) doing laundry, so we could travel with carry-ons only (if you’ve known us for a while, you know we’re obsessed with traveling light).
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We stayed in the historic center (Old Town – Ciudad Amurallada), in an apartment that was just the right size for our family of four (2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, a living area with an open kitchen, and a small balcony). It was very close to the city walls, right by the entrance to the famous Café del Mar.
The location was perfect: one block away, we were in the lively heart of the historic center, with plenty of restaurants, cafés, and shops just around the corner. At the same time, since the apartment faced the inner courtyard of the three-story building, it was quiet, even though the view from the small balcony was nothing particularly special.
There are several hotels in this part of town. Hotel Aguamarina Boutique has a lovely rooftop pool, and so does the charming and highly rated Amarla Boutique Hotel Cartagena, where you can relax in the late afternoon.
Now, if you’re like us and prefer staying in an apartment every now and then, this one is in the same building as ours and this one on the building next door, so you can pick whichever suits you best.
You can check prices and availability here:
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Getting around in Cartagena
If you’re staying in Ciudad Amurallada (the historic center), you can easily explore everything on foot. The historic part of town is compact and pleasant, and Getsemaní — where you’ll also find plenty of accommodation options, as well as great restaurants, bars, and shops — is just a short walk away.
Except for the beaches, we did everything on foot. We walked a lot, under a 30ºC+ (mid-80s ºF) sun over our heads all the time. The sun is relentless, so be prepared. Don’t forget sunscreen and hats — use them every day.
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What to do in Cartagena de Indias, Colombia
A quick heads-up: although Cartagena sits on the Caribbean Sea, there are no proper beaches in town. The waves are strong, and in some spots there’s only a narrow strip of sand, which, when we drove past it on the way to and from the airport, was completely packed with chairs, umbrellas, and people. The water didn’t look very inviting either, far from that idyllic Caribbean image we usually have in mind.
If you’re after that dreamy Caribbean beach, you’ll need to head to nearby islands and beaches further out — I’ll talk about that later in this post.
First, let me share what we did in Cartagena during our days there.
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Old town – Ciudad Amurallada
The historic area of Cartagena is absolutely beautiful — charming, colorful, and full of character. It’s easily one of the most charming colonial town I’ve ever visited. I even tried to compare it to Paraty in Brazil (a historic town on the Atlantic coast, about 200 km south of Rio de Janeiro), but despite being Brazilian and very proud of my country, Cartagena wins — at least in my opinion.
Cartagena was founded in 1533 and, for centuries, was one of the most important ports in the area, serving as a key hub for the flow of silver and other metals from the Peru and Bolivia region, as well as for receiving goods from Europe and enslaved Africans. For a long time, it was also the seat of government for the Spanish colonies in the Americas.
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What to do in Ciudad Amurallada
Start by simply walking and getting lost in the alleys of the historic center, which includes the neighborhoods of El Centro and San Diego, and be sure to include a stroll through Getsemaní.
Stop at any café that catches your eye — if you’re a coffee lover, you won’t be short of opportunities. Let the kids have as much ice cream as they want (after all, they’re on vacation, right?). Visit the churches and historic landmarks scattered around the city and, as the afternoon fades into evening, stop for a drink at one of the many bars.
Café del Mar, located right on the city walls, has great sunset views, but it can get very crowded, with long lines. If you want to go, arrive early and be prepared. You can also enjoy equally amazing sunset views by walking along the city walls nearby — it’s free and easy.
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When we were walking around Old Town and Getsemaní, the kids started to get bored (because there comes a point when not even ice cream can convince them to walk through historic alleys under a 40ºC sun). So I came up with a challenge that turned out to be one of the best memories of the trip: a hunt for the most beautiful door in town.
The doors in Cartagena’s Old Town are stunning, so we walked around taking pictures in front of all the ones we liked. At the end of the day, each of us picked our favorite, and we sent the photos to our extended family for a vote. The door with the most votes would win, and whoever had chosen it got to set the rules for the next day. I don’t remember which door I picked or who won — but I do remember how much fun it was and that we ended up with some beautiful photos. I shared a fun reel about this on my Instagram @danae_explore, go check it out!
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Palacio de la Inquisición and Museo del Oro
Among the highlights in the Old Town, we visited and recommend the Palácio de la Inquisición. What looks like a beautiful colonial house was once the seat of the Inquisition, whose mission was to eliminate heresy, burn witches, and carry out all the terrible acts associated with that dark period. In addition to exhibits about the Inquisition in Spanish America, the museum also features pre-Columbian artifacts and a very interesting overview of Cartagena’s history as a port and fortified city over the centuries.
Right across the same square is the Museo del Oro Zenu. Since we had already visited Bogotá’s Museo del Oro, we decided to leave this one for a future trip. If you haven’t been to the one in Bogotá (or even if you have), everything we heard suggests this museum is fascinating and well worth a visit.
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Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas
Another must-see in Cartagena is Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas — the largest fortress ever built by the Spanish in any of their colonies. It sits on San Lázaro Hill and was built in 1657 during the colonial period.
In 1984, UNESCO listed Cartagena’s historic center, its fortifications, and the castle as a World Heritage Site.
The day we visited, the heat was intense and the sun was blazing — you can imagine, right? The kids (and at least half of the adults) were complaining non-stop, but that didn’t stop us from climbing to the top, walking along the walls, exploring the maze of tunnels and corridors, learning more about Spanish colonization in the region, and enjoying the views over the city.
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What to do around Cartagena
That Caribbean you’ve always dreamed of, with turquoise water, white-sand beaches, and plenty of shade, is real and just a short boat or car ride from Cartagena.
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Islas del Rosario (Rosario Islands)
The best-known and easiest beaches to reach from Cartagena are the Islas del Rosario (Rosario Islands), an archipelago about 35 km southwest of Cartagena. It’s easy to visit on a boat trip from the city.
We originally booked a boat tour, but ended up choosing one that goes overland. A van picked us up at our accommodation at 6 am, and we headed to Playa Blanca, a mainland beach very close to the islands. Once there, we took a boat out to the islands and visited San Martín de Pajarales Island, home to an aquarium, the Oceanario de Las Islas del Rosario.
You might be thinking, “just another aquarium,” but this one is different: the fish are kept in sea-fed pools, and you view them from above, walking along pathways between the enclosures. The guides are very friendly, explain the different species they help protect (in Spanish — I’m not sure if there are English tours, so it’s worth checking), and interact with the animals, including sharks. It’s both fun and interesting. At the end, there’s a dolphin show — something I personally find a bit questionable nowadays — but the kids loved it.
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Playa Blanca
Playa Blanca (White Beach) lives up to its name: the sand is truly white and the water beautifully turquoise. But — and here I’ll be very honest — that’s where the appeal ends.
The strip of sand (at least when we were there) is very narrow and completely taken over by chairs and umbrellas from beach bars lining the shore. There’s barely any free space. In many sections, you end up walking in the water because there’s simply nowhere to step on the sand.
And then there’s the trash, a lot of it. In the parking lot, at the beach access, on the sand, near the restaurants… everywhere. Add to that the crowds. People everywhere, loud music blasting from every direction, each bar or group competing with the next.
To be honest, I found it hellish.
We stayed at a beach bar that had some chairs a few meters from the water. The food was as expected (nothing special), the beer was fine, but the overall experience was far from that “dream Caribbean beach club” vibe. I wouldn’t go back — in fact, the next day we skipped another beach trip we had booked and decided to stay in town instead.
The photos you see here were taken right when we arrived, before 8 am, before the crowds showed up. I didn’t take any photos later on — I’d rather keep those early images and the memories of the laughs we had and the games we played in the water (which, by the way, was delicious).
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Is Cartagena worth visiting?
At the beginning of this post, I wondered whether my very high expectations would be met.
So, was it worth it? Yes — absolutely.
Cartagena is a unique and memorable destination that is well worth a visit.
Just writing this post makes me miss wandering through the Ciudad Amurallada, its alleys, cafés, and shops, and makes me want to go back, stroll through the streets, grab an ice cream or a coffee, continue our search for the most beautiful door, and learn even more about the city’s history.
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Here are the websites I always use to plan my trips:
– 🛌 Accommodation: Booking
– ☀️ Tours & activities: Civitatis & Get Your Guide
– 📱 eSIM for mobile data: Airalo e-SIM – use promo code DANAE2375
– 🚗 Car rental: RentCars – use promo code DANAE
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All our posts about traveling to Colombia:
- What to do in 3 days in Bogotá
- What to do in Cartagena de Indias – Colombia
- How to visit Tayrona National Park – the most beautiful beaches in mainland Colombia
- The best of Colombia – 12-day itinerary
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And here are our posts about other destinations in Central and South America:
Brazil:
- Complete guide to visiting Lençóis Maranhenses: Tips and essential itinerary
- Chapada dos Veadeiros Guide: what to do, where to stay and more
- Brazilian Amazon – How to visit the Amazon Rainforest
- What to do in Alter do Chão: Exploring amazonian beaches and rainforests in Brazil
- Chapada das Mesas – Complete itinerary: what to do, where to stay, how to get there
- The best tours to do in Bonito, Brazil, in 4 days
- Ultimate Guide to Bonito: Exploring the Southern Brazilian Pantanal’s Hidden Paradise
- What to do in Chapada dos Guimaraes – Mato Grosso
- What to do in Pirenópolis: charming ecotourism in the heart of Central Brazil
Guatemala
Argentina
- The best of Ushuaia: 4-day itinerary for spring and fall
- El Calafate and Perito Moreno Glacier – the best of Argentinan Patagonia
- Northern Argentina: 10-day itinerary through Salta and Jujuy
Chile
Belize
- One week in Belize: a perfect itinerary for first-time visitors
- Things to do in Belize: the best of San Ignacio, Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker
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