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If I tell you I love traveling around Argentina, will you agree with me or think I’m a bit crazy?
Now, what if I invite you on a road trip through a part of the country that many people don’t even realize exists? A region where deserts, forests, canyons, and salt flats blend seamlessly into the landscape, where multicolored mountains and altitudes above 4 meters are just part of daily life. A journey that takes you through villages with adobe houses frozen in time, past wineries producing some of Argentina’s finest wines, and along a route where you’ll stop approximately 5.462.798 times at viewpoints — each one more breathtaking (and surreal) than the last. Along the way, expect to cross paths with llamas, guanacos, and plenty of Andean wildlife — and who knows, maybe even witness snow in the middle of the desert during summer.
Are you in?
We experienced all of this on our ten-day adventure through northern Argentina. In this post, I’m sharing our full itinerary with all the details, but if you have any questions, just reach out to me on Instagram - I love talking about travel!
Still relatively undiscovered by tourists, Argentina’s northwest absolutely deserves a spot on your “next destinations” list. And even better if you go soon — before the crowds arrive and that magical sense of discovery starts to fade.
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Check out all our posts about traveling in Argentina and Chile:
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In this post, you will find:
ToggleTen-day itinerary through northern Argentina – overview
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If there’s one thing I love, it’s planning travel itineraries! This one was a joy to put together and turned out to be exactly what we wanted: a road trip to explore the Andean region of northern Argentina in a limited time frame, while still keeping things relaxed and unhurried.
We flew into Salta with Aerolíneas Argentinas, connecting through Buenos Aires. So, this itinerary starts and ends in Salta, covering the provinces of Salta and Jujuy.
This itinerary is designed for a road trip. If you don’t have your own vehicle, you can easily rent one in Salta. Check availability and prices here:
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We live in Sao Paulo and, at the time of our trip, there was a direct flight to Salta on Saturdays with Aerolíneas Argentinas. However, since our travel dates didn’t align, we had to take a connecting flight. Flight routes change frequently, so when planning your trip, be sure to check the best available options. To explore flight routes from any airport, the website FlightsFrom can be a helpful resource.
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Our itinerary in northern Argentina was this
1️⃣ Arrival in Salta, pick up rental car and drive to Tilcara.
2️⃣ Tilcara – Explore nearby attractions: Pucará de Tilcara, the High-Altitude Botanical Garden, Devil’s Throat, and Maimará.
3️⃣ Tilcara – Day trip to Humahuaca, visit Cerro de las 14 Colores (bring warm clothes!), and explore Quebrada de las Señoritas.
4️⃣ Salinas Grandes, with a stop at Posta de Hornillos. Overnight in Purmamarca
5️⃣ Purmamarca – Visit Cerro de los 7 Colores, hike the Los Colorados trail, and enjoy the view from Mirador Porito.
6️⃣ Salta – Ride the Cerro San Bernardo Cable Car and visit the Museum of High Mountain Archaeology (a must-see!)
7️⃣ Drive to Cachi, passing through Los Cardones National Park
8️⃣ Drive to Cafayate via Ruta 40 (unpaved road)
9️⃣ Cafayate– Explore the region’s wineries.
Return to Salta via Ruta 68. Overnight in Salta, then fly home early the next morning.
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We took this trip at the end of December/beginning of January, making the most of the holiday break—something we often do, like when we traveled to Southeast Asia or Eastern Europe.
In reality, we spent 11 days in the region since we set aside New Year's Eve to relax. We were in Salta that day, and it was a very laid-back experience with no major activities. That meant we had two full days in Salta, but the city’s main attractions can easily be covered in a single day, as I suggested in the itinerary above.
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Where to stay in Northern Argentina
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When planning a trip, there’s nothing better than getting accommodation recommendations from someone who has already tried and tested them, right? So here’s a list of the places we stayed during our trip — along with my honest opinion on each one, as well as some suggestions we gathered along the way.
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Where to stay in Salta
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Salta, one of Argentina’s largest cities, offers accommodation options for all types of travelers. I recommend staying in the city center, near Plaza 9 de Julio , where you’ll find historic buildings, charming cafés, great restaurants, and a vibrant cultural scene.
We passed through Salta three times during this trip. The first two times, we stayed at Hotel del Antiguo Convento, set in a historic building near the San Bernardo Convent and San Francisco Church. The location was excellent, the service was good, and the rooms were decent. The breakfast could have had more variety, but overall, it didn’t affect our experience.
On our third visit, we stayed at GS Hotel, also in the historic center, but in a rather uninspiring modern building. The rooms were comfortable, the bathroom was fine, but we didn’t get to try the breakfast since we had an early flight
Between the two, I preferred Hotel del Antiguo Convento. Both were in the same price range and comfort level, but I found the first one more charming and inviting. Neither has private parking, but there are several options nearby (and you might even find street parking if you’re lucky).
If you’re looking for something more upscale, Hotel Boutique Balcón de Plaza, housed in a beautifully restored historic building, would have been my top choice—if it weren’t for the higher price. Another excellent option with a similar name is Solar de La Plaza, which is also among the best in the city.
For budget travelers, we received great recommendations for Hotel Residencial España. Another affordable choice is Ferienhaus Hostel Salta, which is simple, well-located, and offers good value for money.
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Where to stay in Tilcara
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In Tilcara, we stayed at Tulmas Hotel, and it was a great choice — new, well-located, with comfortable rooms and attentive service. Part of our group stayed in double rooms, while the rest stayed in apartments that accommodated up to four people, featuring a living room, bedroom, bathroom, and kitchenette. Breakfast (one of the best of the trip!) was served right in the apartment.
Other options I had shortlisted for this trip, offering both comfort and good value, were Hosteria La Celestina and CasaCalma Boutique Hotel. Another one worth considering is Hotel El Reposo Del Diablo, which even has a small swimming pool — something rare in the region due to the extremely dry climate.
For a more upscale stay, Las Terrazas Hotel Boutique is one of the best in town.
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Where to stay in Purmamarca
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Purmamarca is a charming Andean village surrounded by multicolored mountains . While there are several accommodation options, they generally seemed simpler than those available in Tilcara.
We stayed at Mirador del Virrey Cabañas Boutique, about 2 km from the center. The family apartment was spacious (two bedrooms, a living room, and a kitchen) and well-organized, though quite simple. Breakfast, served in the room, was basic and included instant coffee (unnecessary!). Overall, it was a good option for the price.
In town, I had considered Hosteria La Pushka and Posta de Purmamarca, both well-rated and comfortable.
For something a little more special, Los Colorados Cabañas Boutique and Hotel El Manatial del Silencio stand out as some of the best high-end options in town .
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Where to stay in Cachi
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In Cachi, we stayed at Loma Puskana, one of the most enjoyable accommodations of the trip. The inn has a few rooms in the main house (where we stayed) and cottages spread around a lawn and small vineyards. The owners were incredibly welcoming, the breakfast was excellent, and there’s even a stream at the back, where we found a small waterfall and a natural pool — endless fun for the kids!
Other great options include Miraluna Bodega Boutique and La Merced del Alto, both featuring swimming pools. These are all located outside the town center, so having a car is essential.
If you prefer to stay in the village, Hostería Villa Cardon has a great location and a cozy atmosphere — we stopped by the café next door for coffee and loved it. A more budget-friendly choice is Viracocha Art Hostel Cachi, which is well-located. We had dinner there, but the pizza was a bit disappointing (it tasted like a frozen store-bought one).
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Where to stay in Cafayate
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Cafayate is one of Argentina’s premier wine regions, so it’s no surprise that the town offers a wide range of accommodations, from simple stays to dreamlike retreats.
We wanted something central with good value for money, and Cajón de Água fit the bill perfectly. The friendly staff, excellent breakfast, and small communal kitchen/dining area — great for unwinding with a snack after a long day of exploring — made it a fantastic choice.
Other options I considered were the Hostal Tierra de Vinos, Altos de La Pacha and Hotel Killa Cafayate. For budget travelers, Hostal Cielito Lindo is a well-located and affordable alternative.
If you’re looking for a luxury stay, Patios de Cafayate is an absolute dream — just take a look and tell me it’s not the perfect eno-Andean escape! Another top-tier option is Grace Cafayate, set amidst stunning vineyards, sure to impress even the most discerning traveler.
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What it's like to drive in Northern Argentina
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We covered nearly 2,000 kilometers (1,240 miles) through the northwest region of Argentina, traveling across the provinces of Salta and Jujuy.
The roads here are all single-lane, and you should be prepared for a lot of curves. And when I say a lot, I mean a lot. Expect constant altitude changes, with steep ascents and descents throughout the journey. Driving in this region is an endless rollercoaster of twists and turns.
The route we followed is shown in the map below. The central point (marked with letter J) is Salta, where we started and ended our trip.
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Driving from Salta to Jujuy (Tilcara, Purmamarca, and Humahuaca)
The first stretch of our trip took us north from Salta to the province of Jujuy.
To get from Salta to San Salvador de Jujuy (the capital of Jujuy), I highly recommend taking the route shown on the map, leaving Salta via Ruta 9 eastbound, passing through Cobos and General Güemes, and continuing on Ruta 34.
We made the mistake of trying to take a shortcut by staying on Ruta 9 northbound, passing through La Caldera and El Carmen — and let me tell you, don't make the same mistake.
The road through this section is absolutely stunning, with a breathtaking stretch that cuts through dense forest. But it’s also extremely narrow and ridiculously winding. Picture a road made up entirely of sharp curves—that’s what you’ll get. The speed limit rarely exceeds 30 km/h (18 mph), there are no passing lanes, no shoulders, and virtually no room for error. It’s not for the faint of heart! (Check out my Instagram highlights for a video of this stretch—you’ll see exactly what I mean.)
On our way back from Jujuy to Salta, we followed the recommended route on the map, and it was a much smoother and easier drive.
From San Salvador de Jujuy to the towns we visited—Purmamarca, Tilcara, and Humahuaca — the road conditions were quite decent (it’s the same Ruta 9). It’s still a single-lane highway, but it’s well-marked, with shoulders, rest areas, and proper signage. One thing to note: gas stations are few and far between, so plan ahead and don’t let your tank get too low!
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Driving from Humahuaca to Hornocal
To reach Hornocal (also known as Cerro de los 14 Colores or Serranías del Hornocal) from Humahuaca, you'll drive 24 km (15 miles) on an unpaved road, with a series of curves near the final stretch.
When you arrive in Humahuaca, you might feel some pressure to book a guided tour with a 4WD vehicle— locals tend to warn visitors against driving up in their own rental cars, often exaggerating the risks. We didn’t fall for it, though — we went ahead with our own little rental cart, and everything turned out just fine!
Hornocal sits at 4,350 meters (14,270 feet) above sea level, while Humahuaca is at 3,000 meters (9,840 feet). It’s a steep climb with plenty of curves, but we had no issues. That said, if it has recently rained, proceed with caution, as the road conditions can deteriorate.
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Driving from Purmamarca to Salinas Grandes
The drive from Purmamarca to Salinas Grandes follows Ruta 52, a fully paved road in excellent condition.
Yes, there are quite a few curves, particularly along the Cuesta de Lipán, where you climb to a 4,170-meter (13,680-foot) mountain pass. Of course, we stopped for the classic photo! But despite the winding sections, the drive isn’t particularly intimidating. Even if you’re renting a smal economy car (as we did), you’ll be fine — no need to worry.
Once you arrive at Salinas Grandes, you’ll explore the salt flats in your own car, but only under the guidance of a local tour leader. The guides ride ahead on motorbikes, and it's essential to follow their exact route — beneath the salt crust, there’s hidden water, and straying off course could easily leave your car stuck.
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Driving from Salta to Cachi
The second part of our trip took us south of Salta, where we visited Cachi and Cafayate.
From Salta, we took Ruta 68 to El Carril, then turned onto Ruta 33, passing through Quebrada de Escoipe and Los Cardones National Park before reaching Cachi.
A short section of the route is unpaved, but the road is generally in good condition. Expect plenty of curves, along with steep inclines and descents. One of the highlights of Los Cardones National Park is the Recta de Tin Tin, an 18-km (11-mile) perfectly straight stretch of road (and yes, it’s paved!), which was once part of an ancient network of trails built by the Incas.
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Driving from Cachi to Cafayate via Ruta 40
From Cachi we continued to Cafayate via Ruta 40, one of the most famous scenic roads in the country. Argentina. At 5224 km, Ruta 40 is the longest road in Argentina. It runs from the border with Bolivia in the far north of the country to the south of Patagonia, running parallel to the Andes mountain range.
We did the 156 km stretch between Cachi and Cafayate. The route is all on gravel, with the exception of a few kilometers when we arrived in Cafayate.
It was, by far, the worst road we took on the trip.
The road starts off bad, but it gets worse, until you reach a point where you think the worst must be over, which is when it gets even worse.
We shook non-stop during the 5 hours that the trip lasted. We stopped in Molinos for lunch at El Rincon de Las Empanadas, which were some of the best empanadas we ate on the trip (and there was no shortage of empanadas on this trip).
The route is beautiful, it has some really impressive sections – the The Arrows Gorge It's spectacular, but there comes a time when the mountains of thousands of colors all look the same and all you want is to find the asphalt as quickly as possible.
We went with renting a car common, everything went well, we didn't have any incidents on the route. If it had rained, I don't know if we would have been as lucky. Was it worth it? YES. Would I do it again? That same stretch, NO, but a route with the same level of hardship anywhere else in the world, YES, without a doubt.
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Driving from Cafayate to Salta via Ruta 68
From Cafayate to Salta, we went along Ruta 68, another scenic road in Argentina and, in this section, entirely paved.
The most beautiful part is right after leaving Cafayate, in the region of Quebrada de las Conchas and Quebrada de Cafayate. Rock formations sculpted by water and wind over thousands of years change the scenery at every turn of the road, with each viewpoint more impressive than the last. It is worth stopping at all the viewpoints and rock formations, some of the coolest are El Sapo, El Anfiteatro, Tres Cruces, Los Colorados, La Yesera.
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Adjusting your Northern Argentina itinerary
Using our itinerary as a base, you can tailor your trip to match your interests. Here are some suggestions:
The itinerary is divided into three sections: Salta, the northern region (Tilcara & Purmamarca), and the southern region (Cachi & Cafayate). The good news? The order doesn’t affect the experience, so feel free to rearrange the sections in whatever way best suits your trip.
Over these ten days, we passed through Salta three times: upon arrival, midway through the trip, and at the end. That final stop was necessary for our return flight home, but an alternative would have been flying out of Tucumán, which is slightly farther from Cafayate than Salta.
Wine lover? Then you’re in for a treat in Cafayate. Sitting at over 1,700 meters (5,600 feet) above sea level, it’s one of the highest wine regions in the world. The region’s signature grape is Torrontés, but I also had a Malbec there that was absolutely delicious. With dozens of wineries to visit, you could easily spend a few days exploring the local wine scene.
Can you drive to Northern Argentina? Absolutely! Not only is it possible, but it’s actually quite common to drive, either from Patagonia, Buenos Aires, Uruguai or Brazil there. Along the way, we met several Brazilian travelers who had driven to Salta from the southern and southeastern Brazilian states. If you love a good road trip, this is a great option. From what we gathered, most people take about three days to drive from São Paulo to Salta—one day in Brazil and two in Argentina— though some told us they managed to do it in just two.
Thinking about combining Northern Argentina with Atacama and Salar de Uyuni? Many travelers include Northern Argentina as part of a larger itinerary covering San Pedro de Atacama in Chile and Bolivia’s Salar de Uyuni. Since we had already visited both on a previous trip and had limited time, we decided to focus solely on Argentina this time. If you're renting a car, be sure to check with the rental company about crossing international borders.
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Map of our Northern Argentina road trip
Our 10-day, 1,850-kilometer road trip through Northern Argentina is mapped out below. Just click to save it to your Google account! When it’s time to plan your own adventure through the Argentinean Andes, you’ll know exactly where to start. 😉
In this post, I explain how I use Google MyMaps to plan my trips. It’s a fantastic tool for saving places, calculating routes and distances, and organizing your trip overall. I highly recommend it!
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How to use this map: Click the menu tab in the upper left corner of the map to access different layers, including points of interest and routes. You can toggle layers on and off by checking the corresponding boxes. To see details about specific locations, click on the icons on the map.
To save this map to your Google Maps account, just click the star icon next to the map title. To access it on your phone or computer, open Google Maps, tap the menu button, go to “My Places”, select “Maps” and you will find this map listed among your saved maps.
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Check out all our posts about traveling in Central and South America:
- What to do in 3 days in Bogotá
- What to do in Cartagena de Indias – Colombia
- How to visit Tayrona National Park – the most beautiful beaches in mainland Colombia
- The best of Colombia – 12-day itinerary
- Guatemala – 10-day itinerary
- Northern Argentina: a 10-day itinerary through Salta and Jujuy
- El Calafate and Perito Moreno Glacier - the best of Argentinan Patagonia
- The best of Ushuaia – A 4-day itinerary for spring and autumn
- Torres del Paine photographic expedition - Chilean Patagonia
- One week in Belize: a perfect itinerary for first-time visitors
- What to do in Belize: the best of San Ignacio, Caye Ambergris and Caye Caulker
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