Not sure whether to choose a jungle or a beach destination? In Alter do Chão, you get the best of both in one place. We spent five days in Alter, and I’m here to share everything you can do in this paradise of beaches and forests.
Located on the banks of the Tapajós River, Alter do Chão is one of those places that instantly draws you in from the moment you catch your first glimpse of “Ilha do Amor” from the town’s main square. You’ll probably start wondering the quickest way to get there, just to soak in all the love that gives it its name (this “island” is technically a peninsula, but that’s beside the point.)
Whether you prefer to relax on beaches with fine, golden sand, swim in fresh water at the perfect temperature, enjoy some shade while sipping coconut water (or a cold beer, if that’s more your thing), or you’re more into jungle adventures, hikes, boat trips, and wildlife spotting, Alter has you covered. Plus, it’s set in a lively little town with great restaurants, bars, regional crafts, and an irresistible vibe.
Alter do Chão, a place steeped in the legends of the Muiraquitã and Boiuna, with its vibrant birdlife, playful dolphins, welcoming locals, and great local food, was one of three stops on our journey through some of Brazil’s most unique destinations: Alter do Chão, Anavilhanas National Park (Novo Airão, Amazon), and Chapada dos Veadeiros.
First of all, follow me on Instagram @danae_explore – that’s where you can keep up with my trips, find lots of travel tips, and send me a DM anytime. I love chatting about travel!
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When to go to Alter do Chão
In Alter do Chão, as in much of the Amazon, your experience can feel very different depending on the time of year.
During the low river season, from August to January, you’ll find endless stretches of beaches with fine, sparkling sand, making it hard to resist a swim.
In the flood season, from February to July, the highlight is the flooded forests and the wildlife, which are said to be more active and easier to spot.
We visited in mid-January and explored many beaches, so many, in fact, that we found stalls set up in areas that were already beginning to flood. I can imagine that during the dry season, the water recedes even further, revealing hidden beaches we never knew existed, each one more beautiful than the last.
If you’re planning to visit Alter in December or January, which is typically the summer holiday season in Brazil, you’re in luck. There will still be plenty of beaches to explore, along with flooded forests to explore as well.
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Looking for nature and adventure inspiration in Brazil? You’ll find plenty here on the blog: from Lençóis Maranhenses to the Chapadas – Chapada dos Veadeiros, Chapada das Mesas, and Chapada dos Guimarães, the Amazon in Anavilhanas and in Alter do Chão, as well as destinations like Pirenópolis and Bonito, one of Brazil’s top ecotourism spots.
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How to get to Alter do Chão
Alter do Chão is a small town near Santarém, where you’ll find the nearest airport. Santarém is approximately 1,400 km west of Belém and 1,770 km north of Cuiabá, the closest major Brazilian cities you can reach by road.
Even though it’s far from Brazil’s main hubs, Santarém has direct flights to Manaus, Belém, Brasília, and other cities in the area (at the time of writing, as this can always change). We went to Alter after spending a few days at Anavilhanas National Park, in the Amazon. We flew with Azul from Manaus, which took about 1 hour and 20 minutes to Santarém. On the way back, we flew from Santarém to Brasília on a direct flight that lasted about 2 hours and 30 minutes.
From Santarém airport to Alter do Chão, it’s about a 40-minute drive. We went by taxi, pre-booked with a driver recommended by our guesthouse, but you can also catch one at the airport or order an Uber when you arrive.
I wouldn’t recommend renting a car, as most tours in Alter do Chão are done by boat. You can reach a few beaches by car, but not many. We didn’t miss having one at all.
If you’re considering renting a car, you can check prices below and use our code DANAE to get 5% off.
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To rent a car, I always use RentCars, where I usually find the best options, and with the DANAE promo code you still get an additional 5% off. Shall we go?
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Where to stay in Alter do Chão
Alter do Chão offers accommodation for all budgets and travel styles.
We stayed at Villa Arumã Pousada, a small pousada with chalets set in a lush, wooded area. It really felt like staying in the middle of the jungle — we even saw monkeys and sloths on the property.
We were two families traveling together, so we booked two chalets, which together felt like a two-story house. One family stayed in the ground-floor chalet, while the other stayed upstairs, which had a bathtub on the balcony surrounded by towering trees — such a highlight! In the late afternoon and evening, we enjoyed the small pool suspended between the trees, which was a real highlight. Although it wasn’t very close to the town center, it was still an easy walk to get there.
Other options I researched at the time that looked great and have solid reviews are:
– Casa da Arvore de Alter – A real treehouse, fully integrated with nature. We really wanted to stay here, but it was already booked.
– Beloalter Hotel – It seems to be a bit further from the town center but offers good amenities and a private beach.
– Sunset Beach House – A rental house very close to the center and Ilha do Amor, with great reviews.
– Pousada Ocazum Ilha do Amor – an excellent option if you want to stay close to the town center
While you’re at it, check the map to see if they’re available for your travel dates:
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What to do in Alter do Chão
Most tours in Alter do Chão are done by boat. While some places can be reached by land, unless you have your own car or a specific reason for one, renting a car doesn’t make much sense. You’re much better off exploring by boat.
We did all our tours with Marcelão (+93 99181 0535), a super friendly boat guide who knows the region incredibly well. He taught us so much about the local wildlife, plant life, the Amazonian rivers, and how the local communities interact with their environment.
All the tours we did were full-day trips, each ending with a sunset more beautiful than the last.
Here’s what you shouldn’t miss in Alter do Chão:
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Floresta Nacional de Tapajós (Tapajós National Forest)
This protected area is home to indigenous communities that offer guided tours through the forest. We visited the villages of Maguari and Jamaraquá.
Our guide, Chito, often stopped to point out different plants, explain their medicinal uses, and show how certain palm leaves are used to make different tools. We walked through a rubber plantation, explored a flooded forest, visited a lake full of giant water lilies, and spent time with local communities.
There’s a simple local restaurant on-site where the fresh fish is excellent. After the hike, you can relax in one of the hammocks for a well-deserved break.
On the way back, we stopped at a few beaches and enjoyed an unforgettable sunset at Ponta do Cajutuba.
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Meeting of the Waters: Tapajós River and the Amazon
Next, our guide took us to a channel of the Amazon River, where the striking difference in water color is immediately clear — the Amazon is a muddy, light-brown color, while the Tapajós remains crystal clear.
Our first stop was at a riverside home (I didn’t catch the name). The family welcomed us and took us on a walk through the forest. With our guide’s help, we spotted a variety of wildlife — mostly birds, but also sloths, monkeys, and iguanas. We also tasted regional nuts and sweets made from local ingredients.
But there was still plenty more to explore!
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Jardim de Vitórias-Régia da Dulce (Dulce’s water lily garden)
We then visited Jardim de Vitórias-Régias da Dulce. Dulce, a local resident, grows Amazon water lilies in the lake next to her home. They’re not only beautiful, but also the main ingredient in the snacks she prepares.
Dulce, who clearly loves cooking, explained how she began experimenting with the plant and eventually discovered that different parts could be used to make different dishes, such as tempura, cookies, popcorn, chips, and brownies. The setting is simple, with a “tasting menu” served on her home’s balcony — a unique and memorable experience.
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From there, we headed back to the Tapajós River for lunch at Casa do Saulo, a highly regarded restaurant with stunning river views and well-executed dishes. It’s a bit pricier than most places in the area, but the quality justifies it.
We stopped for a swim at the beach at Ponta de Pedras and ended the day with a spectacular sunset at Ponta do Cururu.
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Lagoa Verde (Green Lagoon)
Lagoa Verde is located very close to the village of Alter do Chão. During the dry season, a sand peninsula forms between the lagoon and the Tapajós River, separating it from the river’s main channel. The peninsula is lined with kiosks, and the beach there is really beautiful.
We entered the lagoon by boat. The vegetation blends into the water, creating a vast flooded forest. At times, it feels almost surreal — you find yourself gliding through the treetops by boat as if it were the most normal thing in the world.
I imagine the tour becomes more limited at the peak of the dry season, but we visited in January (at the end of the dry season, when the water level had already started to rise), and it was absolutely stunning.
The water is calm and inviting, making you want to jump in for a swim. There are a few hikes in the area, but we didn’t explore them much. Instead, we took our time enjoying the lagoon and a small, charming beach we came across.
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Beaches of the Tapajós River
Alter do Chão has countless beaches along the Tapajós River. There are thousands of kilometers of sandy shoreline — no exaggeration. Even though we visited at the end of the dry season, when the water level had already started to rise and many beaches were partially flooded or had much narrower stretches of sand, it still felt like they went on forever.
Some of these beaches have bars, beach clubs, vendors, and everything you’d expect from popular Brazilian beaches. If, like me, you’re used to the ocean, you’ll notice that (1) the vibe feels very similar, and (2) it’s also completely different, because swimming in fresh, clear water is so much better than swimming in the sea — especially nowadays, when the sea often feels more polluted.
I enjoyed the river beaches so much that, if I could, I’d stick to river beaches from now on. I absolutely loved it. I hope you go and experience even a fraction of what I did — it’s more than enough to fall in love with the place.
I don’t remember all the names of the beaches we visited (and we didn’t have time to stop at all of them, since we were only there for five days), but the ones we loved were Pindobal, Ponta de Pedras, Cajatuba, Santa Cruz, Cajueiro, and probably a few others I’ve simply forgotten.
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Don’t miss the sunset
On any tour you do in Alter do Chão, make sure you catch the sunset. No matter how tired you might be, trust me, it’s worth it. The sun sets over the far bank of the Tapajós River, which is about 14 km wide in this region. So the river stretches all the way to the horizon, and each sunset somehow feels more beautiful than the last.
As if that wasn’t enough, on one of the afternoons at Ponta do Muretá, while we were just relaxing, a group of river dolphins appeared and swam close to the shore until dusk.
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Ilha do Amor
Despite its name, which translates to “Love Island”, Ilha do Amor is actually a sand peninsula that forms right in front of the town center during the dry season — and it’s easy to see why it got that name.
There are several kiosks and bars, making it a great spot to swim in the river and enjoy a drink. The view of the island from the town center is the classic postcard view of Alter do Chão.
Alter do Chão is one of those places that stays with you. Between the river beaches, the forest, and the rhythm of life around the water, everything feels simple in the best possible way. It’s the kind of place where you slow down without even trying.
If you’re looking for a destination that combines nature, great scenery, and a laid-back atmosphere, Alter do Chão is very hard to beat.
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Looking for nature and adventure inspiration in Brazil? You’ll find plenty here on the blog: from Lençóis Maranhenses to the Chapadas – Chapada dos Veadeiros, Chapada das Mesas, and Chapada dos Guimarães, the Amazon in Anavilhanas and in Alter do Chão, as well as destinations like Pirenópolis and Bonito, one of Brazil’s top ecotourism spots.
Here are the websites I always use to plan my trips:
– 🛌 Accommodation: Booking
– ☀️ Tours & activities: Civitatis & Get Your Guide
– 📱 eSIM for mobile data: Airalo e-SIM – use promo code DANAE2375
– 🚗 Car rental: RentCars – use promo code DANAE
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All our posts about traveling in Brazil, be sure to check them out before planing a trip to my home country:
- Brazilian Amazon – How to visit the Amazon Rainforest
- What to do in Alter do Chão: Exploring amazonian beaches and rainforests in Brazil
- What to do in Chapada dos Guimaraes, Mato Grosso
- The best tours to do in Bonito, Brazil, in 4 days
- Ultimate Guide to Bonito: Exploring the Southern Brazilian Pantanal’s Hidden Paradise
- Bonito, Brazil with kids: When is the right age to visit?
- Complete guide to visiting Lençóis Maranhenses: Tips and essential itinerary
- Chapada das Mesas – Complete itinerary: what to do, where to stay, how to get there
- What to do in Pirenópolis: ecotourism and history in the interior of Goiás
- Chapada dos Veadeiros – Complete guide: best waterfalls, accommodations and many tips.
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Check out all our posts about traveling in Central and South America:
Colombia
- What to do in 3 days in Bogotá
- What to do in Cartagena de Indias – Colombia
- How to visit Tayrona National Park – the most beautiful beaches in mainland Colombia
- The best of Colombia – 12-day itinerary
Argentina
- Northern Argentina: a 10-day itinerary through Salta and Jujuy
- El Calafate and Perito Moreno Glacier – the best of Argentinan Patagonia
- The best of Ushuaia – A 4-day itinerary for spring and autumn
Chile
Belize
- One week in Belize: a perfect itinerary for first-time visitors
- What to do in Belize: the best of San Ignacio, Caye Ambergris and Caye Caulker
Guatemala
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